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Totally agree. Requiem was ass as a movie, but Wolf was the king. I actually had the Ancient predator for a while, but I got rid of him because the the over-bulked muscular body and excessive array of showy ceremonial bladed weapons just didn't hit a chord with me. Wolf, with his lean body...

Like an idiot, I rubbed off the Future/smoke off the dome in one spot while trying to buff it to a shine. I guess nothing really likes to stick to PP or PE plastic. I had to strip it all off and start over, but I think it was a blessing in disguise because honestly I overdid the smoke the first...

Thanks! I'm glad I didn't ruin the dome trying to pry it off. How do you guys get this behemoth to stand in any somewhat dynamic pose? My particular specimen has somewhat loose knee joints, so I had to drill a crotch mounting pole (which took balls, literally). But look Ma, no tail needed...

Re: PREDATOR / A L I E N Collections I think for all the Preds made after Berserker, you have to remove the mandible and lower jaw pieces by design. The inside of the mask is fitted with a piece that inserts into the empty holes.

I'm a bit new to NECA Aliens, but I decided to grab the 1/4 scale Big Chap after seeing how nice the Queen that I gave my daughter was. I wasn't 100% happy with the frosty dome, so I took a chance and tried darkening and shining it up. I cracked off the dome first. Started with 2 light coats of...

Is the arc reactor detail supposed to be visible under the chest piece when the light is off, or is the lens frosted? I couldn't find a movie scene to verify, but there is this HOA scene from IM3. Looks frosted:

Still love this guy... he's my only pred since I gave my P1/Classic to my son, now I'm waiting on Wolf and P1 2.0 I know some guys used a clear gray paint to tame the blue on the dreds, but the old photobucket pics aren't visible anymore. I tried a different less permanent method, rubbing each...

Not perfect, but I added Mauler and Backstabber's pilot ID numbers. They are just cut out form paper and taped on.

Just the waist. The fabric suits just need a bit more futzing so they don't bunch up around the legs.

Is there any reason to pre-order this guy? There's no exclusive, and there's a NRD. Not having bought preds recently from sideshow, I wasn't sure how fast the stock would run out.

It's really just the waist that needs fattening up. I just wrapped and taped a folded piece of paper towel under the suit. I also needed to add another notch to the belts.

Yeah, friggin' photobucket. Here's a a couple of recent shots and an oldie. Changes include fattening up bodies, Black2/Black3 helmet markings, clear amber finish on lenses, custom code cylinders, and adding 3rd hoses.

I just soldered micro-connector wires directly to the battery terminals in the head and back, and daisy-chained them to a single USB plug. The wires run out the bottom of the head, inside the right back booster cavity fed into an existing hole leading into the back battery compartment, and then...

I have my War Machine I hardwired to USB power, just waiting :tap for Diecast Mark VI so I can daisy chain the pair in one display.

I wired 2 pink LEDs in parallel, and swapped out the existing resistor with 100 ohm since the pinks have a higher forward voltage than the reds. I also had to shave down the top of the rubber neck socket to make room for the wiring. My wiring is sloppy, but you get the idea: I used 91%...

Hey, if one new pink LED looks good, what about....TWO pink LEDs? No more cyclops effect! I wish HT did something like this as stock rather than cheaping out with 1 LED, but I suppose the battery drain would be a problem. Hence, I'm going to change over to USB power - I'll leave a a plug-in...

I don't know if there is an easy solution, but I thought I'd just ask. Is there a feasible way to access the arc reactor LED in HT IM figures? Splitting the body appears to require cracking off many glued-on panels to access hidden screws, and I've already gone past my comfort zone attempting...

Very nice! I may do the same, my WM shoulders are a hair loose as well.

Thanks! I can now confirm that the DC WM1 torso likely cannot be dissembled without ruining it. So the white arc reactor/unibeam stays. Considering this guy will be standing next to the upcoming DC Mk6, having equally bright LEDs will be nice.

Hey, thought I'd share some pics I posted in the customs forum. I swapped out the red head LED with a "cherry" pink one. The bulbs were completely different sizes, so it was a bit of a MacGyver butcher job. Contemplating the arc reactor bulb now.. or leave it white for movie-accuracy.