NECA: Predator Movie Franchise Figures

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Anyways, sorry for the derail there, I'm wondering when we will see that Camo Berserker Pred we saw at SDCC get released. Hopefully we will hear something at Toyfair.
You mean the stealthed Mr. Black with the tree behind him and shizzle? I thought that was just for show and they weren't going to actually sell them.. I wish they would though, it was badass.
 
Wonder how much extra it'd cost them to use the actual tree base, rather than a photo background. I'd pay it. Looks cooler and more unique than my SDCC full-stealth version.
 
I think they are, here are some twitter posts they made when the show was going on:

: @Neca_Toys Is that berserker pred painted to blend into the trees? If not,I might just have a heart attack.

A: @CaptainComicB he is, Camo Stealth. 2011 & a fresh spin on Stealth & Cloaking.


And the bottom of this article: https://webcache.googleusercontent....amo+stealth+predator&cd=7&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us
Damn, thats AWESOME! They should do a stealthed P1 standing on a branch, similar to when Mac sees him for the first time.
 
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There are factors that can affect this including the quality of the plastic, paint protecting the plastic, the water temp used and the figure's exposure to other environmental hazards.

The effect won't be immediate, but within 15-20 years the polymers will begin to break down at a much faster rate than they would have before the heating by water. Of course things like UV radiation (sunlight) speed this process up as well. Even exposure to oxygen begins the slow process of the molecular breakdown of the plastic. Boiling it just speeds this up.

Aside from that, the hair dryer allows a constant and regulated temperature to be applied at all times, allowing careful spot application of the heat for as long of a duration as you choose. No heating and reheating of water until the limb gets soft enough. Or if you have to re-try, it's as fast as flicking a switch and putting the hot air "beam" onto the stubborn area.

With water you need to heat it up enough so even as it cools down it retains enough heat to give the plastic enough time to soften, and as a result, the initial "plunge" into the hot water is exposure to heat levels that the plastic should not be exposed to.

I always have this rule: Pots of hot water are for cooking food and burning hands; hairdryers are for making managable hair and popping off action figure limbs.

Are there any real immediate cons to the boil and pop method? No. But there are long-term effects that may occur. Plus the hairdryer is just so much more precise and convienient.

After years and years of using the boil-n pop method and getting left with frustration, the hairdryer method is a godsend. I'lve loosened and popped of parts I would have thought impossible. I don't mean to come down so hard on the boil and pop method, but I just cannot sell the benifits of the hairdryer enough. Seriously, it's changed the way I customize and eliminated alot of frustration.

In 15-20 years I may not even be collecting figures anymore. So it still doesn't bother me :)

And for me it's less precise and convenient, but that's just my opinion.
 
I'm trying to find the link of the place I read that you shouldn't use the boiling water method but I can't seem to find it.


An ways, I look at it this way... can you cook spaggetti under a hair dryer in the same amount of time as you can in a hot pan of water? Meat? The usage of water and the heat needed to heat up the water and then transfer to the material causes a chemical change that is different that just the direct (and measured) application of heat onto the material by a hair dryer.

I'm sure the things you guys have boiled before will be be fine, but I just don't want to take the risk. Rest assured, even in a closed off room; the plastics are slowly decaying due to oxygen exposure, heat variances and natural chemical breakdown. My best dvice is to avoid UV light, and limit exposure to flourecent lights.

The molecular differences between plastic and food aren't exactly similar you know :dunno

I never use BOILING water. Maybe "scalding". Nothing more than what will come out of a sink (that's what I use - a sink. Never boil pots of water. I'm too lazy for that).

I've always been afraid of true boiling water melting off the paint. Or the plastic melting and ruining the pot.
 
No problem, I was just trying to give my personal perspective on things. Yeah, hot sink water probably won't do anything to the plastic. I always forget most people will use it for just loosening parts or minor repositioning, rather than the full disassembly I do that requires more time and heat.

I always try to avoid the heated water method because I do quite a bit of figure disassembly, and some parts need to get really, really soft to get them off or pulled apart, and the heat level I was safe with doing in the water just wasn't doing it. I too, was always afraid of melting the plastic or rubbing the paint off.

I always try to recommend the hair dryer method, beacause some people may have a hard time knowing just exactly how hot to heat the water, and how long to leave their figures in that type of heat. Plus, accidental contact with a hot pot may not be good for the figure (or your hands!)

Sorry, I didn't mean to come down so hard on the boil-n-pop method, I just wanted to show an alternate way that works for me, and depending on what you are trying to do (like things that require alot of heat), would be potentially less damaging for the figure.:)
 
Finally got my Tracker and unmasked Berserker...wow his tusks are broke...glued one back on. His right arm at the elbow has all kinds of paint gunk and it looks like the joint was stretched out.
My unmasked Berserker has the same situation with his right elbow and left knee. Paint gunk and it looks like the joint was just worn down. Really disappointed in these guys especially the Berserker.
I might just pop his head off and put it on the other berserker body. Besides the elbow problem, the Tracker is awesome. I'll take some pics soon.
 
my unmasked berserker is a brick no movement whatsoever... trackers tusks broke but i glued em on and masked classic falls apart standing there
 
Something I've noticed...

There is a difference in the quality of plastic used between Series 1 figures and these Series 2 figures.

The S2 figures plastic is of an obviously lower quality.

It's very pliable, causing the joints to seem more 'bendy', and not as sturdy compared to S1 figures.

Anyone else notice this?
 
Something I've noticed...

There is a difference in the quality of plastic used between Series 1 figures and these Series 2 figures.

The S2 figures plastic is of an obviously lower quality.

It's very pliable, causing the joints to seem more 'bendy', and not as sturdy compared to S1 figures.

Anyone else notice this?


Yes, the way more easy to see this difference is in their dreads.
 
What bothers me most, and I'm a HUGE NECA fan mind you, is that NECA had to approve this change in plastic.

So, they knew going into it, that these would be inferior to S1 figures.

Now, with that said, I have been very lucky and all of my S2 figures are fine and have good paint apps.

But, with all of the complaints I've seen about S2, I'm glad NECA is switching to the new factory for S3 figures.

Let's just hope they use a better quality of plastic.
 
What bothers me most, and I'm a HUGE NECA fan mind you, is that NECA had to approve this change in plastic.

So, they knew going into it, that these would be inferior to S1 figures.

Now, with that said, I have been very lucky and all of my S2 figures are fine and have good paint apps.

But, with all of the complaints I've seen about S2, I'm glad NECA is switching to the new factory for S3 figures.

Let's just hope they use a better quality of plastic.

It may not be worse "quality", the bendiness may have been done on purpose by them to keep them from breaking when they fall (and other things like that). Many plastic softeners could have made the plastic more bendy, perhaps it's not just a "bad quality" that makes it that way.

Unfortunately the paint didn't work very well on the plastic and it seeped into many of the figures' joints.
 
My masked Classic's pretty floppy. The ball-pin joints feel softer and there are some spots (namely the waist and left thigh) where the swivel joints gap out if you just wiggle them. Not too much of an issue since I can still get them back in the right spot, but I'm done with this level of quality from NECA. Bring on the 1/4 and Series 3, all from the new factory. Hells, yeah.
 
What bothers me most, and I'm a HUGE NECA fan mind you, is that NECA had to approve this change in plastic.

So, they knew going into it, that these would be inferior to S1 figures.

Now, with that said, I have been very lucky and all of my S2 figures are fine and have good paint apps.

But, with all of the complaints I've seen about S2, I'm glad NECA is switching to the new factory for S3 figures.

Let's just hope they use a better quality of plastic.

Similar happened with T2, the Steel Mill T-800's paint and everything is totally different from the first ones, which was a bit surprising.
 
S'funny... My series 2 figures were all great & sturdy. Just some paint on the joints which was easily fixed with my knife.

Just never know what youre gonna get with this stuff!
 
Something I've noticed...

There is a difference in the quality of plastic used between Series 1 figures and these Series 2 figures.

The S2 figures plastic is of an obviously lower quality.

It's very pliable, causing the joints to seem more 'bendy', and not as sturdy compared to S1 figures.

Anyone else notice this?
Yep thats my issue...the plastic is really bendy at the joints. Like I said when i move his elbow like i said i can see the peg inside and it looks stretched out or likes its been bent almost out of the socket.

What bothers me most, and I'm a HUGE NECA fan mind you, is that NECA had to approve this change in plastic.

So, they knew going into it, that these would be inferior to S1 figures.

Now, with that said, I have been very lucky and all of my S2 figures are fine and have good paint apps.

But, with all of the complaints I've seen about S2, I'm glad NECA is switching to the new factory for S3 figures.

Let's just hope they use a better quality of plastic.
This was my conclusion as well, Im glad there switching for series 3, because if they end up like these series 2...i'll cancel my order for my 1/4 pred and the series 3.

It may not be worse "quality", the bendiness may have been done on purpose by them to keep them from breaking when they fall (and other things like that). Many plastic softeners could have made the plastic more bendy, perhaps it's not just a "bad quality" that makes it that way.

Unfortunately the paint didn't work very well on the plastic and it seeped into many of the figures' joints.

Yep thats the issue on my Berserker...his elbow was clogged with a giant paint clumb that i pulled out. His knee was like that as well and I ended up using an xacto blade and cutting out the excess so he could actually move, but when I did that i noticed his joints were the same way. Like they were bent so much that the plastic was just weak and looked really stretched out.
 
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