1/6 Hot Toys R2-D2 (Artoo-Detoo) - TFA Version

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A dry paper towel you say? Does it take hours? I polished mine for about 10 minutes and none of it came off ... [emoji26]
 
A dry paper towel you say? Does it take hours? I polished mine for about 10 minutes and none of it came off ... [emoji26]

I used a non-abrasive rubbing compound mixed with water. 2 parts compound and 1 part water. Then used Q-tips and paper towel to rub them off. Took me less than 10mins to do the job.
 
How is the battery life for you guys? Mine ran out of battery very soon. The remote has battery but the R2 unit itself ran out. I wonder if I forgot to turn off the light... I left it "ON" without turning the lights on so I can trigger the sounds whenever I felt like it. Could that be what drained the batteries?
 
How is the battery life for you guys? Mine ran out of battery very soon. The remote has battery but the R2 unit itself ran out. I wonder if I forgot to turn off the light... I left it "ON" without turning the lights on so I can trigger the sounds whenever I felt like it. Could that be what drained the batteries?

Yeah it sucks but you need to take off the dome and turn the switch to off when you are done using or the batteries will drain. :(
 
How is the battery life for you guys? Mine ran out of battery very soon. The remote has battery but the R2 unit itself ran out. I wonder if I forgot to turn off the light... I left it "ON" without turning the lights on so I can trigger the sounds whenever I felt like it. Could that be what drained the batteries?

I remove the batteries when not in use. Fearing that they might leak when not used for a long time. Better be sure than sorry.
 
Thanks to both Anthrapoid and Bikerscout for their excellent pics! I've owned the SS R2 before, and was very happy with it (flimsiness notwithstanding), but seeing the HT R2 'cleaned up' does make a world of difference. Leaning towards the HT release now.

But another big question I have: how does Sideshow C-3PO look with the HT R2? Unless Hot Toys makes some major changes to their 'Force Awakens' C-3PO (which is unlikely, as it is accurate to that film and not A New Hope), I won't be purchasing it - which leaves the SS C-3PO. Again, I've owned it before, but would love to see any photos of HT R2 and SS C-3PO if possible? Thanks! :)
 
There’s also the Tama 3PO. Can be had for a decent price every once in a while.
Three years ago I got lucky and found a good price on ebay for the Tama C3PO. Now that I also have the HT Artoo, I'm really glad I can display metal beside metal.

The other releases of 3PO don't even come close to the quality of the Tama, and now the HT Artoo is at the same level- and the correct scale!!!!!!!
 
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Hey Anthra!

I was thinking of switching the light pattern of the R2. Panel lights on first before projector. I haven't opened the dome yet. Might do it next week if extra time permits.
 
Thanks to both Anthrapoid and Bikerscout for their excellent pics! I've owned the SS R2 before, and was very happy with it (flimsiness notwithstanding), but seeing the HT R2 'cleaned up' does make a world of difference. Leaning towards the HT release now.

But another big question I have: how does Sideshow C-3PO look with the HT R2? Unless Hot Toys makes some major changes to their 'Force Awakens' C-3PO (which is unlikely, as it is accurate to that film and not A New Hope), I won't be purchasing it - which leaves the SS C-3PO. Again, I've owned it before, but would love to see any photos of HT R2 and SS C-3PO if possible? Thanks! :)

Here you go:

4DCB1223-7897-4F74-805A-E21C0DCC985B.jpg
 
Hey Anthra!

I was thinking of switching the light pattern of the R2. Panel lights on first before projector. I haven't opened the dome yet. Might do it next week if extra time permits.
I found that you can't switch them, because the curcuit boards and solders are micro-sized.

What I've done is this:

1) Removed the three eye projector lights from their sockets, (pulled them inside) left them wired, covered them in a bundle with dark colored tape so they don't give off any light.

2) Bought a 3-volt coin battery holder & battery, a set of two 3-volt 5mm LED's identical to the originals, and a micro button switch.

3) Wired together the battery holder & battery, the microswitch and the two LED's. Installed the micro button switch under the dome, at the inside base of the top eye projector hole.

The top eye projector was never seen lit-up in the movies anyway- so I'm using it to hide the on/off switch to activate the front and rear projector lights. Also, the front and rear projectors have a clear plastic lense built into them, seperate from the LED's. (when you remove the front and rear LED's, a clear lense remains there in place) The third projector on top does NOT have a clear lense built in- after that LED is pulled inside, it just has a hole that passes directly through into the dome area. So it's a perfect place to hide the on/off switch installed under it, inside the dome.

Result: Now I can activate the normal colored lights by themselves, and when I want the projector eyes to light up, I just poke a small stick into the top eye and press the microswitch.3v-coin-cell-holder-with-switch-25.gif.jpg
 
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Here you go:

Thanks so much, Timemeddler! Much appreciated! I think they look terrific together - and, indeed, the size relationship might be a little more accurate than the Sideshow R2/C-3PO combo (if A New Hope stills are anything to go by).

Vintage-C3PO-Rap-Video-Featuring-R2-D2.jpg

Thanks again. :)
 
I found that you can't switch them, because the curcuit boards and solders are micro-sized.

What I've done is this:

1) Removed the three eye projector lights from their sockets, (pulled them inside) left them wired, covered them in a bundle with dark colored tape so they don't give off any light.

2) Bought a 3-volt coin battery holder & battery, a set of two 3-volt 5mm LED's identical to the originals, and a micro button switch.

3) Wired together the battery holder & battery, the microswitch and the two LED's. Installed the micro button switch under the dome, at the inside base of the top eye projector hole.

The top eye projector was never seen lit-up in the movies anyway- so I'm using it to hide the on/off switch to activate the front and rear projector lights. Also, the front and rear projectors have a clear plastic lense built into them, seperate from the LED's. (when you remove the front and rear LED's, a clear lense remains there in place) The third projector on top does NOT have a clear lense built in- after that LED is pulled inside, it just has a hole that passes directly through into the dome area. So it's a perfect place to hide the on/off switch installed under it, inside the dome.

Result: Now I can activate the normal colored lights by themselves, and when I want the projector eyes to light up, I just poke a small stick into the top eye and press the microswitch.View attachment 387866

Hey Thanks for this tip (once again). ;)
 
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