Hot Toys Back to the Future II - DeLorean - Mods

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7. Now take your first jumper cable and connect from 5V USBC out over the LED2(flight mode) board into the BAT connector. This is literally 3cm away!
View attachment 639688
8. Now attach a jumper cable from the port to the left of “BAT” from LED2 board over to “VCC” on LED1 board.
View attachment 640025
9. And voila! Lights all on when USBC is connected. Digital power button completely bypassed.
View attachment 639690

I can finally put this back together and display it with a smart plug hooked up. Such a simple modification. Hardest part was opening the hood up.

And whoever finds this informative, please give credit where due. Don’t just steal the photos and instructions please.

Good luck! If you have all the tools and parts, this should take you at most 20 minutes in total time.

(When and if I get the Blitzway Ecto, I’d have to do a USBC powered mod on there. Another fun future project!)

Thank you so, so much for this my dude. I followed the instructions and got it working.

I had a couple of scary moments. It took ages to pull off the hood once the screws were out - it really felt stuck down on the right and I was very worried I was going to damage the plastic by pulling too hard. I almost gave up at this point. Second scare was the back wheel lights not coming on when I turned everything back on at the end. I must have pulled out the wrong thing in Step 4. I followed which cables were going towards the back of the car and were not inserted. For me they were a yellow and black pair. I was sure they were in the BAT slot.

Anyway, everything comes on on voice activation, with my other vehicle lights now. Thanks so much - in awe of the genius on these boards sometimes. My biggest gripe with this Delorean (once they resolved the wheel and seat issues) was the weird decision on how to control the lighting. Extremely happy it's not a problem anymore.
 
Been meaning to sign up and post my findings in this thread but just have been busy. I started down that path a few weeks ago but I gave up on going all the way. I used the photos from the guy in the thread for the first Delorean to help me, but I can try to grab some better photos this weekend to post here.

The rear bumper is really easy to remove, easier than the front end. Behind the bumper are 2 more circuit boards, I think one for each mode, and they had empty ports so @MDLAV8R you could use it to get rid of the exterior wiring.

The exhaust vents are just clipped in with big tabs on each side, it feels a bit scary to just pop them off because they need a little force but they should come off without any problems. Underneath the vents are screws. There are also hidden screws along the backside of the rear wheel wells, they are covered by plastic tabs that you have to remove first. I think they pull up from bottom but I will need to check. The first one gave me a little trouble but the second one came out pretty easy, you will just need a really thin pry tool or maybe a good adhesive. After that I think there was just 2 screws on the underside of the bumper.

I don't recommend going any further. When you look inside you can see 2 screw posts, one is under the green tubes and one is under the silver and black things in front of the red capacitors. I was able to pop off the green tubes, they had some adhesive underneath to help hold them down so it wasn't easy. The other side was a total fight and it ended up with me breaking off the whole side of the silver platform, so that was the end of that for me. I was able to make a pretty solid repair so I am not too bummed about it. That's as as far as I got so after those 2 screws I have no idea what comes next.
Did you take any pics? I'm wanting to add a pole mount behind the number plate. I just need to know if there's anything behind it. I don't mind giving it a go if i know there's space there.
 
Yeah I took the images now. I think I misremembered and it was only 4 screws that were holding the bumper, the 2 screws under the vent and the 2 in the wheel wells.

Here is the clips that hold the exhaust vents down. The vents are covering 3 holes, the screws that hold the bumper are in the one at the back. In one of the photos it looks like the vents have a screw post near the front but there aren't actually any screws for it.
PXL_20231008_221257117.MP.jpg
PXL_20231008_221331245.MP.jpg


The wheel well tabs have a little notch at the top of them that slots into a square hole (seen in the photo), so you'll want to pull them from the bottom side first. The screw hole is harder to see in the photos, but the screws are oriented horizontally straight back towards the bumper.
PXL_20231008_222019290.MP.jpg
PXL_20231008_222003584.jpg


Here is the inside of the rear end of the car and the 2 circuit boards.
PXL_20231008_221603142.MP.jpg


And here is the inside of the bumper and lights, there is a screw post that is behind the license plate but it's along the bottom side so maybe it won't affect you.
PXL_20231008_221016741.MP.jpg
PXL_20231008_221036417.MP.jpg
 
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Yeah I took the images now. I think I misremembered and it was only 4 screws that were holding the bumper, the 2 screws under the vent and the 2 in the wheel wells.
Thanks for posting the pics. I already secured my external wiring and am going to claim success before I make one mod too many lol. If I were starting over and saw the pics I would have probably tapped into that circuit behind the bumper.
 
Yeah I took the images now. I think I misremembered and it was only 4 screws that were holding the bumper, the 2 screws under the vent and the 2 in the wheel wells.

Here is the clips that hold the exhaust vents down. The vents are covering 3 holes, the screws that hold the bumper are in the one at the back. In one of the photos it looks like the vents have a screw post near the front but there aren't actually any screws for it.
View attachment 668061View attachment 668062

The wheel well tabs have a little notch at the top of them that slots into a square hole (seen in the photo), so you'll want to pull them from the bottom side first. The screw hole is harder to see in the photos, but the screws are oriented horizontally straight back towards the bumper.
View attachment 668063View attachment 668064

Here is the inside of the rear end of the car and the 2 circuit boards.
View attachment 668065

And here is the inside of the bumper and lights, there is a screw post that is behind the license plate but it's along the bottom side so maybe it won't affect you.
View attachment 668066View attachment 668067
This is excellent! Thank you for the photos and details. I’ve been trying to figure out a safe way i remove the rear as well.
 
Thank you so, so much for this my dude. I followed the instructions and got it working.

I had a couple of scary moments. It took ages to pull off the hood once the screws were out - it really felt stuck down on the right and I was very worried I was going to damage the plastic by pulling too hard. I almost gave up at this point. Second scare was the back wheel lights not coming on when I turned everything back on at the end. I must have pulled out the wrong thing in Step 4. I followed which cables were going towards the back of the car and were not inserted. For me they were a yellow and black pair. I was sure they were in the BAT slot.

Anyway, everything comes on on voice activation, with my other vehicle lights now. Thanks so much - in awe of the genius on these boards sometimes. My biggest gripe with this Delorean (once they resolved the wheel and seat issues) was the weird decision on how to control the lighting. Extremely happy it's not a problem anymore.
Glad we are all working together to make this piece even better! 😄
 
Don’t have mine yet but tempted to make this mod. I wish Hot Toys would have just made an on/off switch that stays full on when plugged into power via USB. I don’t really want to screw anything up taking it all apart and trying to rewire it.
 
Rewiring to have always on when USBC is connected:

1. Create/buy jumper cables out of 1.25mm JST cables. I bought a pack of 30 and soldered two female cables together.
View attachment 639682
2. Detach all three cables from where they go in the existing switch.(see next steps to see how/where)
View attachment 639683

I'm going to attempt to do this. I'm reading your instructions and looking at the pictures. Are the two jumper cables made out of of 4 female or male cables? Your post says female but the connectors look male. Thanks.
 
I'm going to attempt to do this. I'm reading your instructions and looking at the pictures. Are the two jumper cables made out of of 4 female or male cables? Your post says female but the connectors look male. Thanks.
EDITED to correct gender lol:

The jumpers that @cdx008 made are terminated on each end by a plug (female gender because it has no pins) that will allow you to connect (jump) 2 sockets (male gender because it has pins) on the circuit boards in the Delorean. When you open up the vehicle and look at the boards it will become very obvious which connectors to use. So - gender is based on pins, and plug/socket is based on location/mobility - where the socket is the thing that is fixed and doesn’t move and plug is the thing that is “mobile”
 
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Right, so it is two male cables you solder together, not female. I think it was just a small mistake in the instructions but I wanted to be sure. I intend to make the cable before I even disassemble the car, so I want to have the right thing ready.
 
The jumpers that @cdx008 made are terminated on each end by a plug (male) that will allow you to connect (jump) 2 sockets (female) on the circuit boards in the Delorean. When you open up the vehicle and look at the boards it will become very obvious which connectors to use.
Thanks for the great response!

Yep, if you follow where the wires go from the switch, it becomes pretty obvious.
 
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Right, so it is two male cables you solder together, not female. I think it was just a small mistake in the instructions but I wanted to be sure. I intend to make the cable before I even disassemble the car, so I want to have the right thing ready.
Make sure to get the right type of connector. In my case, I soldered two “female” cables together to extend and bypass the digital switch. According to the picture from the cables I bought from Amazon, it says it’s “female”. Regardless, get the one that has a hole to stick a metal pin in 😅.
1699330126921.jpeg
 
Ciao a tutti, ho una delorean bttf2 ma mi è arrivata con la parte anteriore graffiata.

Pensavo di sostituire semplicemente il pezzo che chiedeva HT, ma sembra che avessi chiesto la luna, quindi ho deciso di smontarlo e ridipingerlo io stesso.

Qualcuno sa dirmi il colore esatto che hanno usato?

Ho chiesto a HT ma non mi risponde. Come se avessi chiesto la formula segreta della Coca Cola"
 

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Ciao a tutti, ho una delorean bttf2 ma mi è arrivata con la parte anteriore graffiata.

Pensavo di sostituire semplicemente il pezzo che chiedeva HT, ma sembra che avessi chiesto la luna, quindi ho deciso di smontarlo e ridipingerlo io stesso.

Qualcuno sa dirmi il colore esatto che hanno usato?

Ho chiesto a HT ma non mi risponde. Come se avessi chiesto la formula segreta della Coca Cola"
Ah - si, Coke lol …

Queste aziende non sembrano volersi occupare di riparazioni fai da te. Probabilmente non è conveniente per loro. Probabilmente dovresti perseguire l'opzione di restituzione/sostituzione se disponibile.

Buona fortuna!
 
Ciao a tutti, ho una delorean bttf2 ma mi è arrivata con la parte anteriore graffiata.

Pensavo di sostituire semplicemente il pezzo che chiedeva HT, ma sembra che avessi chiesto la luna, quindi ho deciso di smontarlo e ridipingerlo io stesso.

Qualcuno sa dirmi il colore esatto che hanno usato?

Ho chiesto a HT ma non mi risponde. Come se avessi chiesto la formula segreta della Coca Cola"
???
 
Sorry!!!

Hello everybody, I have a delorean bttf2 but it arrived with a scratched front.

I thought I'd just replace the piece by asking HT, but it seems I asked for the moon, so I decided to dismantle it and repaint it myself.

Can anyone tell me the exact color they used?

I asked HT but they don't answer me. Like I had asked for the secret formula of Coca Cola"
 

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Make sure to get the right type of connector. In my case, I soldered two “female” cables together to extend and bypass the digital switch. According to the picture from the cables I bought from Amazon, it says it’s “female”. Regardless, get the one that has a hole to stick a metal pin in 😅.
View attachment 673022

Oh that is weird. So it is calling it a female, because the metal pins are going into it, instead of a male, like I think most people would, since the entire connector is plugging INTO something else. Never seen that before. Interesting. Thanks for the clarification!
 
Sorry!!!

Hello everybody, I have a delorean bttf2 but it arrived with a scratched front.

I thought I'd just replace the piece by asking HT, but it seems I asked for the moon, so I decided to dismantle it and repaint it myself.

Can anyone tell me the exact color they used?

I asked HT but they don't answer me. Like I had asked for the secret formula of Coca Cola"
Unfortunately you may need to get a color as close as you can and paint it entirely. I’d suggest leaving it as is since it’s not too bad. Maybe try a thin silver sharpie on it just to cover the black plastic.
 
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