I like the idea of working over the blue panels. Not sure how much I focused on those, but maybe that could make the silver pop less?
Sideshow 1/6 R2-D2
- Thread starter Jaycepticon
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It varies over the figure, maybe dependent on certain areas where the paint isn't so deep. I know this because I did the same 99% Alcohol thing on my SSC 3PO (rubbing off the chocolate sauce weathering) and managed to rub some gold paint off. I did see a bit on the R2, but it was tiny.
But the difference on both R2 and 3PO is night and day. Both really come to life and look much more metallic.
Rub 'n Buff was my initial go-to option. I figured I could get a more realistic metallic finish with it and then try weathering over it. (after sanding off that ugly seam...)
Phoenix0A
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The silver will still pop out, it just changes the panels from a dull grayish midnight blue to more of a vibrant metallic blue that matches the rest of the figure better.
I saw this on a Facebook post in a BB-8 Builder's group.
If anyone is brave enough to try repainting their dome this looks like a fantastic option.
Spaz Stick Ultimate Mirror Chrome Airbrush Paint
If anyone is brave enough to try repainting their dome this looks like a fantastic option.
Spaz Stick Ultimate Mirror Chrome Airbrush Paint
Natedog
Super Freak
Never used this particular product. After reading the instructions however, it doesn't sound any different than other products out there. Black base coat followed by a light coat of the silver topped with a glossy clear. The trick to a nice finish is always proper prep and lots of sanding (before, during and after) to make sure its smooth.
Another option is simple silver metalic paint with a gloss coat over top. Sand the clear with 2000 grit, then use rubbing compound to really give it a wet look shine.
I have used rub n' buff and that stuff looks great. It leaves a greasy/waxy finish and needs to be sealed properly or it will wear off.
Solidsnake1256
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I have weathered my R2 to give it the dagobah look
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Solidsnake1256
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Jme_c
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jedijim3002
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I was thinking of going with one of these for Dagobah R2:
Solid dark chocolate is better. The hollow milk chocolate is taking the cheap route.
Seriously?!? The hollow milk chocolate variant is more accurate to the Kenny Baker version.
[emoji849]
I went to turn the lights on today to compare them to HT's in that vid, and they got stuck. They wouldn't shut off when I touched the panel. so I popped the head and turned off the switch. Turned it back on and they go on with the touch panel but won't turn off. Only turn off with the inner stitch. And only the full function works, not the partial function.
Anyone else had issues like this?
Anyone else had issues like this?
I haven't had any issues with my R2 (as yet...) but I was going to post in the SSC 3PO thread that my 3PO's touch on/off area (back of head) doesn't seem to work any more. And even though the batteries were pretty new, I tried to get the head off to try fresh batteries... but can't seem to get the head off now to get at the battery area, no matter how hard I pull.
I'm thinking about maybe painting the eyes (or inserting a high res color print of 3PO's eyes behind the laser-cut brass eye covers) so the eyes will look lit up without the need for lights. The issue is that unlike R2, the SSC 3PO doesn't look great without the lights on - he looks dead - whereas the Tama still looks like 3PO even without the lights on.
It's interesting that when I first got the SSC 3PO and R2 it did occur to me that even though the touch feature was brilliant (way better than the Tama switch-inside-head method) on both, I wondered how durable it would be in the longer haul.
That's even wronger.
Mad Old Lu
Super Freak
Try replacing the batteries. I think I remember people having all sorts of wacky problems with the lights that didn't seem low-battery-related. But it seemed to work.
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