Rough plans for custom case

[golfpro1286]

So I need your opinions on these rough plans that I threw together for a custom case. The case it's self is 12"x12"x16". It is 5 sides with the bottom open. It will sit on a base that is 14"x14x1". I plan on laying a strip of LEDs on top of the case then covering it with a Lid of sorts that is 12"x12"x1". The lid will also have a small opening on the back to run LED wires to chain to other boxes. I plan on having backdrops in all of them so I just run it down the back side. Let me know what you think of this. The only problem I haven't thought of is how to get the lid to remain in place. I want it to be flush with the box. Thanks for your advice on this...

View attachment 65502View attachment 65503View attachment 65504

 

[golfpro1286]

Here is the first go at the box. Lowes did not get the acrylic cut to exact specs so it's off by about 1/8th of an inch at the top. Also had a little weld-on run that marred one side pretty good. All in all came out pretty well. Next one will be to specifications as I plan on ordering from eplastics pre cut and routed. Going to try to put the base and top together this week with more photos to follow! View attachment 65605

 

[joda76]

Nice job, I may have to do something like this for certain figures.

 

[golfpro1286]

Here is a backdrop I threw together this evening. I think I will have all of them set up with backdrops... A. It looks nice B. It will hide LED wires.

 

[golfpro1286]

Here is the box with LEDs and the base set up.

 

[Arctic Beast]

Hey just came across this thread. Been gathering the items to try an make my own cases as well. Spend the afternoon practicing on some scrap acrylic and after only a couple of tries I seem to have got the hang of it. Need to order the right pieces now and perhaps ask for some more scrap for another test run then I will give it a go in the coming weeks.

Great work Golfpro those look awesome.

 

[golfpro1286]

Hey just came across this thread. Been gathering the items to try an make my own cases as well. Spend the afternoon practicing on some scrap acrylic and after only a couple of tries I seem to have got the hang of it. Need to order the right pieces now and perhaps ask for some more scrap for another test run then I will give it a go in the coming weeks.

Great work Golfpro those look awesome.

It's really not that difficult, I did the same exact thing as you are doing practicing with scrap first. Heads up, it is a whole new deal when you put the full size box together. They are much more difficult to keep stable depending on how large of a piece you are working with. Definitely need to work up some clamps like these that will support from both sides and not touch the seam that is being glued.

 

[Arctic Beast]

Thanks for the info golf pro. How do those work exactly hard to tell in the pic. Did you make it yourself.

 

[golfpro1286]

Thanks for the info golf pro. How do those work exactly hard to tell in the pic. Did you make it yourself.

Those aren't mine but that photo was the inspiration for what I made. I just used all wood. I am gonna try to build a box in the next couple of days I will try to post some photos of my process.

 

[golfpro1286]

I threw together my set up with some scrap I had lying around so you guys could see. The scrap isn't cut perfectly straight so that is the only reason it looks just a little off. I have both ends of my square support clamped to the table, the base acrylic that is lying flat lightly clamped and the vertical a relic piece lightly clamped.

 

[Geil]

two minor trouble spots to look out for with your setup though
- the bottom panel should not sit on top of a flat surface. Accidents happen and the solvent may run down to the bottom and then ruin your panel on the bottom side. But it's easy fix, much like the other picture you just need to add another layer/panel that is recessed so the edge of the bottom acrylic panel is hanging over freely.
- your vertical panel needs to slide down after the solvent is applied and the needles are removed so as long as you clamp it for guidance only to allow the sliding motion you should be fine. You may need to work around the grabby rubber fingers of the clamps
Good job otherwise and good luck

 

[Arctic Beast]

two minor trouble spots to look out for with your setup though
- the bottom panel should not sit on top of a flat surface. Accidents happen and the solvent may run down to the bottom and then ruin your panel on the bottom side. But it's easy fix, much like the other picture you just need to add another layer/panel that is recessed so the edge of the bottom acrylic panel is hanging over freely.
- your vertical panel needs to slide down after the solvent is applied and the needles are removed so as long as you clamp it for guidance only to allow the sliding motion you should be fine. You may need to work around the grabby rubber fingers of the clamps
Good job otherwise and good luck

Thanks Geil.

 

[golfpro1286]

I have never tried the pins method, it kind of confused me when I read about it. From so far I have had no troubles with the solvent flowing evenly into the joint without pins. I will certainly take your advice on elevating the bottom panel while gluing. I should probably do some more research and trial runs using pins though huh?

 

[Geil]

The pin method is to ensure you have enough solvent around to form a strong joint before parts of it evaporates. When you do not use the pin method your chances of developing visible air bubbles in the joint is much higher. Mind you most custom cases I look at have a lot of them as most don't care Also for smaller cases when your panels are only 1/8" thick there really is not much to see anyways though I still see them
Now when you look at the DIY guides that are used for custom aquariums, joint strength is crucial and hence pin method is more critical to them

 

[golfpro1286]

Each one is a little better as I go. Need to clean this one up and find a permanent solution for lighting. But I think it came out pretty good!

 

[Arctic Beast]

Each one is a little better as I go. Need to clean this one up and find a permanent solution for lighting. But I think it came out pretty good!

Looks real good bro. The lines look like they came out real clean.

 

[golfpro1286]

Looks real good bro. The lines look like they came out real clean.

There are some saw marks and a few air bubbles. Next time I am going to try to find someone with a router or jointer I can use for a few minutes and then try the pins method also.

 

[Arctic Beast]

What exactly is the pin method? Yeah you can clean up the cut marks with a router. I just had a look the connections on the scrap one I worked on and they look good to me, so I should be ready to give the really one a shot soon. I am making a rather large one though as its for my Deadpool PF so I am gonna have to rig up something like the support structor like you did to help me out. Hopefully have sometime this weekend.

Ps love that upside down Joker. Did you use the weld-on to attach that piece to the top?

 

[golfpro1286]

What exactly is the pin method? Yeah you can clean up the cut marks with a router. I just had a look the connections on the scrap one I worked on and they look good to me, so I should be ready to give the really one a shot soon. I am making a rather large one though as its for my Deadpool PF so I am gonna have to rig up something like the support structor like you did to help me out. Hopefully have sometime this weekend.

Ps love that upside down Joker. Did you use the weld-on to attach that piece to the top?

The pin method is where you place small bits of wire or pins in the joint every 6 inches or so that opens a slight gap to ensure the weld-on flows freely with no air trapped. Within a few seconds of applying the weld-on you pull the pins out and the joint is flush again. Save your time and effort on rigging up a support! I saw a youtube video in which a guy used these awesome 90 degree clamps. I will add a photo at the bottom. They are only $10 each at harbor freight. I picked up a set and they work great just testing them on scrap, you will need an applicator with a long needle though. I did use weld-on to attach the loop end of a locking hasp I got from TAP Plastics.

https://www.harborfreight.com/corner-clamp-with-quick-release-38661.html

https://www.tapplastics.com/product...ges_latches/clear_hasp_locking_keeper_set/128

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q6D3RdRz3Bc[/ame]

Edit: The youtube video also demonstrates the pin method pretty well.

 

[Geil]

Ahh YouTube has this too. Nice! Btw I would not recommend using a router unless you have a way to make sure the edge you take off leaves a perfect straight inal edge which you could do w some contraption in conjunction w a router table. Just keep in mind the contact edge has to be as perfectly flat and straight as possible and there in lies the challenge. The tool I found is more reliable is the jointer but still very difficult to operate to get consistently good results especially when you deal with larger panels. If you can stick w smaller cases using 1/8" panels again I say just accept and move on and keep your effort down. If you do make your own cuts invest in high teeth count blades designed for this type of material to avoid shredded edges etc the more $$ blades do make a big difference though


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