Anthrapoid
Super Freak
Here is a list of needed fixes for Kane and Dallas. Besides the obvious head sculpt for Kane, there are a surprising number of details which can be made movie-accurate with a bit of work.
I will be editing this post by adding more numbered fixes below, as I discover them. Also, I will insert detailed information about how I fixed each one, and add pictures to each fix as they are completed.
GREEN TEXT means the fix is complete, details and photos are below.
I encourage feedback, and any additional fixes which other collectors/customizers wish to add. Here we go!
1. NEW JOHN HURT FACE!!!
Here is a link to a couple of photos of my finished custom Kane head sculpt: https://www.sideshowcollectors.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1226668&postcount=106
2. Replace incorrect boots with custom-made correct ones. This is an important one for me, and I will be sculpting and casting the correct set of boots soon, and making them available to other collectors.
3. Lower helmets on shoulders, to make faces more properly framed in helmets, and reduce excessive broad-shoulderedness of shoulder guards.
4. Increase pale green 'corrosion' effect on helmet, shoulder guards, backpack, chest plate, wrist bands, and control box below chest plate.
5. Add triangular emblem patches to left rear pockets of space suits; American for Dallas (and Lambert) and British for Kane.
6. Make Kane 5 scale inches shorter than Dallas.
7. reduce excessive brightness of internal helmet lights. (I'm not including any pictures for this one.) I just dabbed some brown acrylic paint onto the three internal helmet lights, and it worked fine. The lights show right through the paint, at the perfect level of brightness.
8. Replace silver tip of sidearm lower scope with clear plastic copy.
9. Change metalic color scheme of pistol (leave the handle grip black) add dust and scratches.
10. Add metalic gold features to rectangular panels on two lower layers of shoulder guards, left and right.
11. Add 'egyptian' wings emblem to rectangular panel above nameplate on chest armor.
12. On rear of shoulder guards, fix metalic gold cross-hatching in the rectangular panes, left and right: seven gold strips overlapping diagonally with seven gold strips, against black background.
13. On backpack, the correct order of the colored lights from top to bottom should be: green - blue - yellow - red... (The order as they are now, is: blue - yellow - green - red)
14. On helmet: Add metalic silver and flat red paint to small peg-shaped features on helmet sides.
15. Abdomenal control box: Accurize! This modification will require considerable work to make the control box movie-accurate. Fortunately, thanks to ukwookie, we have a lot of great reference photos to guide us at this link: https://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.viewAlbums&friendID=410252102
16. On knee/shin pads, remove rusty yellow stain in cracks, replace with dark grey and black/oily smudges.
17. On glass helmet shield, add dust and 'foggy' effect.
18. On bronze wrist bands, mix some acrylic copper & bronze paint; add some very small shiny highlights. Add a bit of pale green corrosion.
19. On helmet mounting collar, drill tiny holes through four triangular bronze tabs.
20. Rotate gun belt so that silver buckle is located on right rear pocket area, NOT front center.
21. On space suit; the laces on the arms and legs over the bands of color should not be white. At a distance, they appear to match the color of the colored bands closely. Close-up, they appear to be a very dirty white, almost a brown leather color.
(This will require a special kind of flexible silicone paint.)
22. On space suits; on the back of the legs behind the knee pad, there should be a rectangular region of bright color from the knee level down to mid-calf.
The color should be the same as the crew member's individual color scheme. Red for Dallas, etc.
I'm still trying to research this one for accuracy, but I can't find any more close-up pictures beyond the ones I already have.
As far as I can tell, the bright patch of colored cloth wraps around the leg of the space suit at the same level where the pocket is located on the back of the lower legs, but the pockets themselves remain their original faded pink color. The bright color 'frames' them, extending 3/16 inch above the pockets and 3/16 inch below them.
Horizontally, the color wraps around the whole back of the leg, starting and ending at the edges of the knee pad.
(This will require a special kind of flexible silicone paint.)
23. On backpack: move the attachment point for the large hose from the left valve to the centre of the top tank.(credit goes to ukwookie for this one.)
24. On helmet: The two thin rods which stick out from below the center of the face shield need to be cut in length by two-thirds. In the film, the two round 'balls' on either side of the rods stick out much further than the rods do.
25. On helmet: Add three additional LED lights to lower rear of helmet, and four more near the top rear. The detail on the helmet shows exactly where the lights belong, they just need to be cut out and replaced with real lights.
The three at the lower rear looks like a doable job; but the four near the top rear of the helmet would be impossible without moving the on/off button about 1/4 inch lower; The on/off button is placed right where those four belong.
This fix requires that you tap into the existing power circuit, so it's for advanced customizers only. However, there is plenty of room inside the helmet for the lower three lights to fit, and the on/off button MIGHT be movable to a lower position to make room for the upper four lights... Proceed if you dare!
26. The GLOVES: Either modify the existing gloves, or fabricate custom made gloves to match movie detail. I have gathered several photos of old Hockey gloves, and the ones which most closely resemble those used in the film are 1974 COOPER 30 Armadillo Thumb hockey gloves. I have posted some pictures for reference: https://www.sideshowcollectors.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1199976&postcount=100
27. Inside helmet, paint dirty white along rim of interior panel inside the bottom of face shield.
Details and photos here: https://www.sideshowcollectors.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1232801&postcount=112
28. Inside helmet, grind down front and back of rim so heads can pass through without scraping.
Details and photos here: https://www.sideshowcollectors.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1233115&postcount=113
29. Inside helmet, grind down back of interior under black sticky padding, so the heads of the figures have room to look forward or up. Before I did this fix, I noticed the heads of the figures were being pushed forward so they always looked in a down direction. Here's a link showing how I fixed this: https://www.sideshowcollectors.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1239695&postcount=126
Obviously some of these fixes are more important than others, and some may not even be possible.
I hope there are at least a few total fanatics out there who will make this thread as active as it should be, add their feedback and their ideas.
As I mentioned at the top, I will be performing as many of these fixes as I can, and I will provide ample photos to show the accurate movie details and the results of my obsessive tinkering.
I will be editing this post by adding more numbered fixes below, as I discover them. Also, I will insert detailed information about how I fixed each one, and add pictures to each fix as they are completed.
GREEN TEXT means the fix is complete, details and photos are below.
I encourage feedback, and any additional fixes which other collectors/customizers wish to add. Here we go!
1. NEW JOHN HURT FACE!!!
Here is a link to a couple of photos of my finished custom Kane head sculpt: https://www.sideshowcollectors.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1226668&postcount=106
2. Replace incorrect boots with custom-made correct ones. This is an important one for me, and I will be sculpting and casting the correct set of boots soon, and making them available to other collectors.
3. Lower helmets on shoulders, to make faces more properly framed in helmets, and reduce excessive broad-shoulderedness of shoulder guards.
4. Increase pale green 'corrosion' effect on helmet, shoulder guards, backpack, chest plate, wrist bands, and control box below chest plate.
5. Add triangular emblem patches to left rear pockets of space suits; American for Dallas (and Lambert) and British for Kane.
6. Make Kane 5 scale inches shorter than Dallas.
7. reduce excessive brightness of internal helmet lights. (I'm not including any pictures for this one.) I just dabbed some brown acrylic paint onto the three internal helmet lights, and it worked fine. The lights show right through the paint, at the perfect level of brightness.
8. Replace silver tip of sidearm lower scope with clear plastic copy.
9. Change metalic color scheme of pistol (leave the handle grip black) add dust and scratches.
10. Add metalic gold features to rectangular panels on two lower layers of shoulder guards, left and right.
11. Add 'egyptian' wings emblem to rectangular panel above nameplate on chest armor.
12. On rear of shoulder guards, fix metalic gold cross-hatching in the rectangular panes, left and right: seven gold strips overlapping diagonally with seven gold strips, against black background.
13. On backpack, the correct order of the colored lights from top to bottom should be: green - blue - yellow - red... (The order as they are now, is: blue - yellow - green - red)
14. On helmet: Add metalic silver and flat red paint to small peg-shaped features on helmet sides.
15. Abdomenal control box: Accurize! This modification will require considerable work to make the control box movie-accurate. Fortunately, thanks to ukwookie, we have a lot of great reference photos to guide us at this link: https://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.viewAlbums&friendID=410252102
16. On knee/shin pads, remove rusty yellow stain in cracks, replace with dark grey and black/oily smudges.
17. On glass helmet shield, add dust and 'foggy' effect.
18. On bronze wrist bands, mix some acrylic copper & bronze paint; add some very small shiny highlights. Add a bit of pale green corrosion.
19. On helmet mounting collar, drill tiny holes through four triangular bronze tabs.
20. Rotate gun belt so that silver buckle is located on right rear pocket area, NOT front center.
21. On space suit; the laces on the arms and legs over the bands of color should not be white. At a distance, they appear to match the color of the colored bands closely. Close-up, they appear to be a very dirty white, almost a brown leather color.
(This will require a special kind of flexible silicone paint.)
22. On space suits; on the back of the legs behind the knee pad, there should be a rectangular region of bright color from the knee level down to mid-calf.
The color should be the same as the crew member's individual color scheme. Red for Dallas, etc.
I'm still trying to research this one for accuracy, but I can't find any more close-up pictures beyond the ones I already have.
As far as I can tell, the bright patch of colored cloth wraps around the leg of the space suit at the same level where the pocket is located on the back of the lower legs, but the pockets themselves remain their original faded pink color. The bright color 'frames' them, extending 3/16 inch above the pockets and 3/16 inch below them.
Horizontally, the color wraps around the whole back of the leg, starting and ending at the edges of the knee pad.
(This will require a special kind of flexible silicone paint.)
23. On backpack: move the attachment point for the large hose from the left valve to the centre of the top tank.(credit goes to ukwookie for this one.)
24. On helmet: The two thin rods which stick out from below the center of the face shield need to be cut in length by two-thirds. In the film, the two round 'balls' on either side of the rods stick out much further than the rods do.
25. On helmet: Add three additional LED lights to lower rear of helmet, and four more near the top rear. The detail on the helmet shows exactly where the lights belong, they just need to be cut out and replaced with real lights.
The three at the lower rear looks like a doable job; but the four near the top rear of the helmet would be impossible without moving the on/off button about 1/4 inch lower; The on/off button is placed right where those four belong.
This fix requires that you tap into the existing power circuit, so it's for advanced customizers only. However, there is plenty of room inside the helmet for the lower three lights to fit, and the on/off button MIGHT be movable to a lower position to make room for the upper four lights... Proceed if you dare!
26. The GLOVES: Either modify the existing gloves, or fabricate custom made gloves to match movie detail. I have gathered several photos of old Hockey gloves, and the ones which most closely resemble those used in the film are 1974 COOPER 30 Armadillo Thumb hockey gloves. I have posted some pictures for reference: https://www.sideshowcollectors.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1199976&postcount=100
27. Inside helmet, paint dirty white along rim of interior panel inside the bottom of face shield.
Details and photos here: https://www.sideshowcollectors.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1232801&postcount=112
28. Inside helmet, grind down front and back of rim so heads can pass through without scraping.
Details and photos here: https://www.sideshowcollectors.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1233115&postcount=113
29. Inside helmet, grind down back of interior under black sticky padding, so the heads of the figures have room to look forward or up. Before I did this fix, I noticed the heads of the figures were being pushed forward so they always looked in a down direction. Here's a link showing how I fixed this: https://www.sideshowcollectors.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1239695&postcount=126
Obviously some of these fixes are more important than others, and some may not even be possible.
I hope there are at least a few total fanatics out there who will make this thread as active as it should be, add their feedback and their ideas.
As I mentioned at the top, I will be performing as many of these fixes as I can, and I will provide ample photos to show the accurate movie details and the results of my obsessive tinkering.
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