Sideshow 1/6 R2-D2

Collector Freaks Forum

Help Support Collector Freaks Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I forgot all about the 3 3/4 scale R2 with sound and lights. I have one as well. He's one of the best figures in that scale. Yep. Self enclosed with sound.

It might be possible to fit one of the smaller Arduino-type boards with a tiny speaker in this R2. It would need plug in power though.
 
Arduino-type boards with a tiny speaker in this R2.

Arduino is somewhat overkill. There are a few more specialty purpose integrated designs out there. If you want preprogrammed than can be really small, no need for recording, no mic, etc. No need for USB either, just a card edge on the PCB or a few IO pins. For a mass-produced toy you can do something custom with a board the size of a fingernail holding the main IC and assorted resistors, capacitors and a tiny coin cell, plus a small piezo "speaker" mounted on top. That can handle sampled/pre-recorded sound or beeps easily. That Hasbro R2 is pretty old now, but it would be neat to see open cracked open
 
Arduino is somewhat overkill. For a mass-produce toy you can do this kind of thing with a board the size of a fingernail holding the main IC and assorter resistors, capacitors and a tiny coin cell, plus a small piezo "speaker" mounted on top.

Yes, but if you or I wanted to retrofit this figure with sound a single board PC might be a decent option, especially since most of the are ~30 bucks.
 
The problem with retrofitting anything into this R2 are the wells/pockets that hold the stems of the various pop-up stuff. It means the board has to turn with the head or those parts will collide with it. It also means that if you have external power you won't be able to just spin the head in one direction an unlimited number of turns. ;) So to get something really small I think the best route will be to toss the idea of a general-purpose micro board.

I'm researching with the intention of being able to set other people up with the solution. So that means it has to be easy for someone unskilled to install. That means also only something with direct sound recording or USB sound file uploading is going to be viable. I wouldn't provide anything pre-recorded because I don't know what people want nor would I want to have Disney send me a cease and desist for using their copyrighted audio. I'll likely order R2 within a couple of weeks and the other parts should be here sometime in March - at the same time I'm looking at using the same sets of parts in a Probe Droid module, though that guy has a ton more space inside him and won't have the same rotation issues.
 
That looks great! I may do the same -- I like my R2 dirty but not the dome. I want that shiny, as metallic-looking as possible. Thanks PJB and Lopie!

I finally mustered up the guts to attack the dome with an alcohol swab. It's hard to make out in the photos, but doing this not only produces a more realistic-looking weathering effect but it really brings out more of the shine from the silver paint underneath, making the surface look more like polished metal.







BTW, I used a 70% alcohol solution with some cotton balls, dabbing firmly over the large silver areas and swabbing softly around the edges with a Q-tip. Wiping across the surface created streaks, so I ended up taking a little more of the weathering off than I wanted to clean those areas up. Overall, though, I'm pleased with the results. Props again to Lopie for the tip! :wave
 
I think I could live with the sound in an external base, perhaps re-purposing my SS Boba Fett stand.

If anything were going to tempt me to open this figure perhaps it would be motorizing the head and remotely turning left and right at different speeds.
 
Hey Wor-Gar, I was also having a terrible time trying to keep the life scanner up on my R2 as well. What made the difference for me was watching Vonhahn's video and him showing that you have to first activate the spring load for the life scanner, pull it up as high as it will go, then grab it from way down towards the base, as low as you can possibly grab it, and pull up from there. It made all the difference in the world for me. And I don't get a click. I hear really tight plastic on plastic friction.
 
I haven't attached a single accessory or lifted anything in or out. Apart from the lights and middle leg. I feel ashamed that I am not getting the full interactive potential out of this figure.

I am however compensating for the lack of sound chip by making the beep boop-ing noises myself.
 
Hey Wor-Gar, I was also having a terrible time trying to keep the life scanner up on my R2 as well. What made the difference for me was watching Vonhahn's video and him showing that you have to first activate the spring load for the life scanner, pull it up as high as it will go, then grab it from way down towards the base, as low as you can possibly grab it, and pull up from there. It made all the difference in the world for me. And I don't get a click. I hear really tight plastic on plastic friction.

Yeah, I tried that approach first and it didn't work. Truthfully, I think I have a faulty one. It sorta holds a pose very loosely. But no matter where I grab it I can't get it to hold firmly -- and I feel no friction. And I do use the spring action first to pop it up and work from there. Thanks for looking out for me though, appreciate it. :duff
 
I know it's a crappy thing to say, but I wish one of these factories does an R2 recast, just a solid chunk, for like $50, so I can put my dispenser tray on it, and use my regular one for all the bells and whistles.

I'd buy it from SSC if they'd do it, but it's probably not worth their time.
 
So I finally just took the head off so I could get better angles on the life scanner and it does seem to hold better the more I work it.

It was only after taking the dome off and holding it upside down that the scanner seemed to lock into place. I don't know what I did differently. I felt there was resistance trying to push it back, so on turning the dome the right way up the scanner stayed in place.

I've left it up for now, and it stays there even if you pick Artoo up.

The alternative would be a bit of foam as I suggested earlier.
 
So i've had the drink tray on R2 since friday, and it looks like it may be wanting to sag, anyone else experiencing this. Also tried some of the arms in the compartments, they feel like a really tight fit, maybe too much paint on the arms has created this. Was worried that the arm would just snap before i got it in there.
This can be a very nerve-racking figure to pose, i know that i'll be really pissed if i break something on R2, but it's only a matter of time i'd say.... 20150209_170452.jpg
 
I did too. Put it together. Looked at it for a few minutes. Went to put it back in the package and broke two of the sections in the process.
 
Mine was fine until a couple of seconds ago.

After reading these posts I decided to put the legs on again. On plugging a glass back in a pin under that platform snapped.

I'll keep this one made up and use it on the Regular when it arrives. Won't be touching the new one!
 
Why couldn't the sound circuitry be put in the main body instead of the dome? Probably plenty of room in there if you can get it open. Activate with a remote. Not sure about changing batteries but maybe you can run a mains?
 
Why couldn't the sound circuitry be put in the main body instead of the dome? Probably plenty of room in there if you can get it open. Activate with a remote. Not sure about changing batteries but maybe you can run a mains?

Hot toys will do it. One thing about theirs I can't wait for is it'll be heavier, diecast dome I'm sure. This Artoo looks great but it's pretty cheap honestly.
 
Back
Top