Modification/Customization for the DX12 Batman Figure

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My only concern with the shoulder plate separation mod is that, with the lower plate fixed to the bicep, many poses will reveal that it is not really a plate, but just a crescent.

Any pics to prove me wrong? :pray:
 
This will seem pretty lame after the epic separation mod, but I realized that I never made a post about reshaping the shoulders, I just mentioned it in a video.

I recently re-re shaped them, and took the opportunity to take a couple pics.


1280_zpsf1e87c46.jpg





IMG_4130_zps2464bf58.jpg





IMG_4994edit_zpsdb972db5.jpg





IMG_4995_zps2af8d73e.jpg



Again, this is achieved by simply heating them up, reshaping them to the desired shape, and freezing them (the heat, squeeze, and freeze method).


No need to remove anything. Just stick the whole figure in the freezer.
 
"the heat, squeeze, and freeze method"

lol, this made me laugh for some reason.

I was modding the shoulders last night, and my GF was wondering why I was constantly opening the freezer door
 
Also, I'm a bit behind on organizing here. I'll try filling every mod on the first page, or at least links to all the mods...
 
My only concern with the shoulder plate separation mod is that, with the lower plate fixed to the bicep, many poses will reveal that it is not really a plate, but just a crescent.

Any pics to prove me wrong? :pray:

Yep, although the dual-layer mod is great for those who mostly display their figure in a neutral pose (or one that has the arms raised to the side, like the fighting stances on previous page), very extreme poses will expose the cut area of the shoulder plate.

That's why, for now, I do not recommend permanently fixing the plate to the arm. Use something that still allows you to position the lower plate if necessary.

I'm trying to find an expoxy clay of some sort that stays slightly flexible after hardening so that I can add to the lower plate. Simple process from that point on. If anyone has suggestions on sculpting material, I'd like to hear. :)

I want to fill in the empty space on the lower gap so it looks like the movie plate, even though for most poses, it's not really necessary.
tumblr_m7w4d7b0vo1qd7ovlo1_1280.jpg


You rarely see the shoulders like that, if ever, but I'd like the option.


This will seem pretty lame after the epic separation mod, but I realized that I never made a post about reshaping the shoulders, I just mentioned it in a video.

I recently re-re shaped them, and took the opportunity to take a couple pics.


Again, this is achieved by simply heating them up, reshaping them to the desired shape, and freezing them (the heat, squeeze, and freeze method).


No need to remove anything. Just stick the whole figure in the freezer.

Not lame, this is very necessary and should be done as well if you're doing any work on the shoulders. :clap
 
This will seem pretty lame after the epic separation mod, but I realized that I never made a post about reshaping the shoulders, I just mentioned it in a video.

I recently re-re shaped them, and took the opportunity to take a couple pics.


1280_zpsf1e87c46.jpg





IMG_4130_zps2464bf58.jpg





IMG_4994edit_zpsdb972db5.jpg





IMG_4995_zps2af8d73e.jpg



Again, this is achieved by simply heating them up, reshaping them to the desired shape, and freezing them (the heat, squeeze, and freeze method).


No need to remove anything. Just stick the whole figure in the freezer.

"the heat, squeeze, and freeze method"

lol, this made me laugh for some reason.

I was modding the shoulders last night, and my GF was wondering why I was constantly opening the freezer door

How long would you guys say the figure needs to go into the freezer for? Going to be modding a figure for the first time when I get this so I have no clue about this stuff.
 
Whoa.... went away for the weekend, came back to a bunch of new mods for this figure. That neck mod and shoulder armor mod by plasmid looks awesome. Damn, I need tools.
 
How long would you guys say the figure needs to go into the freezer for? Going to be modding a figure for the first time when I get this so I have no clue about this stuff.

for me,

-I heated the part for 4-5 seconds with a blow dryer
-reshape the part, hold until it the part get to about room temp
-throw the part in the freezer for about 2-3 minutes.
-you may have to repeat the whole "heat, squeeze, and freeze" method a few times if there are some stubborn pieces (for me it was the gaunlets)

I hope that helps :wave
 
I'm trying to find an expoxy clay of some sort that stays slightly flexible after hardening so that I can add to the lower plate. Simple process from that point on. If anyone has suggestions on sculpting material, I'd like to hear. :)

Google for Sugru. It's a 24hr curing silicone blend for DIY. Maybe that will do what you want.


:borg "Resistance is Futile"
 
How long would you guys say the figure needs to go into the freezer for? Going to be modding a figure for the first time when I get this so I have no clue about this stuff.

for me,

-I heated the part for 4-5 seconds with a blow dryer
-reshape the part, hold until it the part get to about room temp
-throw the part in the freezer for about 2-3 minutes.
-you may have to repeat the whole "heat, squeeze, and freeze" method a few times if there are some stubborn pieces (for me it was the gaunlets)

I hope that helps :wave

Pretty much what I do. Though I heat it for more than a few seconds. I get the plastic good and limp.:lol


Then my trick is standing him up on the front edge of the freezer with the door open, holding/molding the plastic. When it feels like it's holding the new shape I shut the door, leaving him in the freezer for a few minutes... Unless I forget I had him in there, in which case I will find myself wandering around the apartment an hour later thinking, "where the heck did I set him?"

True story.:lol
 
Yep, although the dual-layer mod is great for those who mostly display their figure in a neutral pose (or one that has the arms raised to the side, like the fighting stances on previous page), very extreme poses will expose the cut area of the shoulder plate.

That's why, for now, I do not recommend permanently fixing the plate to the arm. Use something that still allows you to position the lower plate if necessary.

I'm trying to find an expoxy clay of some sort that stays slightly flexible after hardening so that I can add to the lower plate. Simple process from that point on. If anyone has suggestions on sculpting material, I'd like to hear. :)

I want to fill in the empty space on the lower gap so it looks like the movie plate, even though for most poses, it's not really necessary.
tumblr_m7w4d7b0vo1qd7ovlo1_1280.jpg


You rarely see the shoulders like that, if ever, but I'd like the option.

Yeah. I have no intention of going for a pose that dynamic, but I worry that having the arms out in front of him even a little bit (as you might in some basic fighting stances) will reveal that the inside plate is only a crescent.

Any chance you (or Shorty) could take a well-lit pic showing how far you can go with a pose before it shows?


Although I like the neutral pose for Batman, I generally shy away from mods that will hinder articulation. It's the reason I haven't done the gauntlet "cuff" mod. I really love the total freedom of movement I have with the wrists right now (best on any Batman I have), and although the cuff may be a little more realistic, it's always about trying to find the perfect balance between realism and poseability for me.
 
Such a head scratcher that HT and medi both made the shoulder plates flat and not round like the picture you posted. Was it really a case of "oh we'll just recycle those shoulders and save on development costs" ?
 
I've got a custom faceplate and a short rayon cape coming. :rock

Gonna probably just do the elbow pad mod and glove mod. Even though I don't really want to cut pieces off.
 
was playing around with my camera and think I got some decent shots minus the full body shot. Here, I've sculpted new eyelids for the squint and sanded down the back of the mouth pieces so they fit deeper into the mouth. felt they stuck too far out before. Aldo I modded the chest, gloves and gauntlets. Personally, I don't the think the smirk mouth looks so bad or rather happy here now that it actually fits into the cowl properly. i think the squint helps it a bit too.

SAM_3130_zps39dbd562-1_zps0e87ad5a.jpg


SAM_3131_zpse71b1265-1_zps0ed0f4a1.jpg


SAM_3132_zps9271fbad-1_zpsbbf6e3ab.jpg
 
Gipetto, and others that sculpted new lids...what material do you use? Like...what is the process? Please explain in detail. What kind of color is it, does it harden by itself, if not what do you do to make it harden, or does it harden at all, and finally, did you have to paint it black after sculpting?
 
Google for Sugru. It's a 24hr curing silicone blend for DIY. Maybe that will do what you want.

That looks to be exactly what I'm looking for. Thanks for the heads up! :hi5:

Yeah. I have no intention of going for a pose that dynamic, but I worry that having the arms out in front of him even a little bit (as you might in some basic fighting stances) will reveal that the inside plate is only a crescent.

Any chance you (or Shorty) could take a well-lit pic showing how far you can go with a pose before it shows?


Although I like the neutral pose for Batman, I generally shy away from mods that will hinder articulation. It's the reason I haven't done the gauntlet "cuff" mod. I really love the total freedom of movement I have with the wrists right now (best on any Batman I have), and although the cuff may be a little more realistic, it's always about trying to find the perfect balance between realism and poseability for me.

Sure, I'll post some pics later today when I get the chance. Do you have a specific pose in mind though?

Such a head scratcher that HT and medi both made the shoulder plates flat and not round like the picture you posted. Was it really a case of "oh we'll just recycle those shoulders and save on development costs" ?


The 1/4 TDKR figure has more accurate shoulder pads, both in shape and design. I have no reason to believe otherwise that HT just cheaped out and recycled the same pads from earlier 1/6 releases on the DX12.

was playing around with my camera and think I got some decent shots minus the full body shot. Here, I've sculpted new eyelids for the squint and sanded down the back of the mouth pieces so they fit deeper into the mouth. felt they stuck too far out before. Aldo I modded the chest, gloves and gauntlets. Personally, I don't the think the smirk mouth looks so bad or rather happy here now that it actually fits into the cowl properly. i think the squint helps it a bit too.


SAM_3131_zpse71b1265-1_zps0ed0f4a1.jpg


]

Very nice! I hadn't thought of how the face plates kinda stick out from the cowl. Will have to try sanding them down.
 
was playing around with my camera and think I got some decent shots minus the full body shot. Here, I've sculpted new eyelids for the squint and sanded down the back of the mouth pieces so they fit deeper into the mouth. felt they stuck too far out before. Aldo I modded the chest, gloves and gauntlets. Personally, I don't the think the smirk mouth looks so bad or rather happy here now that it actually fits into the cowl properly. i think the squint helps it a bit too.

SAM_3130_zps39dbd562-1_zps0e87ad5a.jpg

Yeah, sanding the backs of the face plates was one of the first things I did. :exactly:



Amazing how much better that face looks with the squint! :google



Sure, I'll post some pics later today when I get the chance. Do you have a specific pose in mind though?

Pose isn't important. Just want to get an idea of at what point the crescent becomes visible. :peace
 
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