Iron Man 3 - 1/6th scale Shades (Mark XXIII) Collectible Figure

[blinguskahn]

Mine just arrived literally 2 minutes ago. While not me favorite figure, the box art is pretty interesting.

Grats! Mine arrives tomorrow and will stay packed up (I'll take a quick peek) until I'm finished with my move.

 

[Chris8907]

Grats! Mine arrives tomorrow and will stay packed up (I'll take a quick peek) until I'm finished with my move.

Same. I just peeked at him through the box window and boxed it back up. I'm moving next month into a bigger place where I can actually build some real displays.

 

[TimothyR]

Silver Centurion or Blue Steel - close quarters combat
Sub-zero Mk VII - cold weather
Disco - party infiltration

Bones
Sub Zero
Heartbreaker / Tank
Mark 3 or 7 stealth

Lol about disco.

I should've specified.. only house party armors are permitted.

Blue steel is a good suggestion. I love that armor, and I never thought of him being one of the only armors with close combat weapons.

What are heartbreaker and tanks specialties?

Anyways, shades arrived tomorrow. I can't wait.

 

[mikericm]

Lol about disco.

I should've specified.. only house party armors are permitted.

Blue steel is a good suggestion. I love that armor, and I never thought of him being one of the only armors with close combat weapons.

What are heartbreaker and tanks specialties?

Anyways, shades arrived tomorrow. I can't wait.

From Iron Man Wiki

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

 

[mikericm]

The arrival of 2 new baby boys

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

 

[rocbolt]

I need some help.. for my coffee table display I usually like to have a theme to the figures I put on there. So, with this coming in, I think I'm going to go with a specialty armor theme. I need to put 4 or 5 armors there.. So I figure shades is camouflage, sneaky is stealth, starboost is upper atmosphere/space, and I'm drawing a blank for 1-2 more. Also, this exludes larger figures like gamma, striker, Igor, snapper, and peacemaker. Which other figure(s) would you include with those three?

Python and Tank

 

[blinguskahn]

Python and Tank are great choices even though there doesn't seem to be much love for Tank. I actually prefer him to Heartbreaker.

How about IP or Hot Rod?

If you're trying to stay away from the Red/Gold, Bones is a decent choice as it has the most pose options but I still think Retro Bones looks tons better.

Maybe DC Mk. III Stealth or Mk. VII Stealth or Sub-Zero or even Midas, or you could go Disco. There's lots of choices, go with what you like the most instead of what you think will display the best, just In my opinion.

 

[masishadow]

Got this yesterday. Was iffy on the figure until I took it out of the box. Addds some much needed diversity, but now I need another soap reactor. Is there an easier solution to wiring these figures up?

 

[blinguskahn]

Got this yesterday. Was iffy on the figure until I took it out of the box. Addds some much needed diversity, but now I need another soap reactor. Is there an easier solution to wiring these figures up?

Not necessarily easier than a SR but MUCH less expensive. Check out Jazz Inc videos on YouTube, he's on here as well and explains it all very well. Been using direct to USB for months now thanks to him!

 

[Redwolf]

Looks like someone splatted **** all over the armor.

 

[blinguskahn]

Looks like someone splatted **** all over the armor.

And camouflage shirts and pants don't?

 

[Chris8907]

Got this yesterday. Was iffy on the figure until I took it out of the box. Addds some much needed diversity, but now I need another soap reactor. Is there an easier solution to wiring these figures up?

I've never known why they couldn't do metal terminals in the bottom of the feet and have the base act as a power source when you stand them on it (think old school house phones).

The wiring is already done inside the figure, just make it so it turns on by standing on the stand. Would open a whole new option for third party displays. No batteries or battery compartments, just a 12v display that could power all the LEDs with one switch or remote.

Until then, soap reactors are the best solution I've seen unfortunately.

 

[masishadow]

Are the polarized connectors that they use to fit inside of the battery compartment something that I can buy and wire myself or are they uniwue to SR? Tried looking for them everywhere, but maybe I am just using incorrect keywords to search. My SR is full, so shades is lonely and unlit. Would much rather buy another figure than a soap reactor pack.

 

[Chris8907]

Are the polarized connectors that they use to fit inside of the battery compartment something that I can buy and wire myself or are they uniwue to SR? Tried looking for them everywhere, but maybe I am just using incorrect keywords to search. My SR is full, so shades is lonely and unlit. Would much rather buy another figure than a soap reactor pack.

I've looked as well. I couldn't see them. They wouldn't be hard to make though. Just get your polarity right when wiring it up. I'm actually shocked hot toys hasn't come out with their own version.

I don't have enough money or patience to wire up 40 figures, so I think I'm going to save the SR for Hulkbuster only. I just wish there was a better solution that everybody could afford.

 

[rocbolt]

I've never known why they couldn't do metal terminals in the bottom of the feet and have the base act as a power source when you stand them on it (think old school house phones).

The wiring is already done inside the figure, just make it so it turns on by standing on the stand. Would open a whole new option for third party displays. No batteries or battery compartments, just a 12v display that could power all the LEDs with one switch or remote.

Until then, soap reactors are the best solution I've seen unfortunately.

Because then the joints wouldn't move? The wiring is compartmentalized inside each part because they can't run wires across moving joints, they have to keep the batteries right next to the LEDs they light up. Statues can have one power source because they don't move and flex and thus bend, pitch, and cut any wires that would be running through it. Any central power in a figure would have to be inductive and wireless, and it would be tough to get a strong enough field to light up the head from a source in the base.

 

[Chris8907]

Because then the joints wouldn't move? The wiring is compartmentalized inside each part because they can't run wires across moving joints, they have to keep the batteries right next to the LEDs they light up. Statues can have one power source because they don't move and flex and thus bend, pitch, and cut any wires that would be running through it. Any central power in a figure would have to be inductive and wireless, and it would be tough to get a strong enough field to light up the head from a source in the base.

Hot Toys joints only bend 90-120 degrees, not enough to pinch cables. You allow a little give and that'll take care of that. It's not an impossible thing to design.

I just don't see the point in having LEDs in figures at all if it takes 20 minutes to turn one one on for about a half hour before they need new batteries.

I just want a simple way without having wires everywhere to push a button and all my figures light up. By the time I turn my last figure on , my first one would be running out of battery.

 

[Veovis]

Hot Toys joints only bend 90-120 degrees, not enough to pinch cables. You allow a little give and that'll take care of that. It's not an impossible thing to design.

I just don't see the point in having LEDs in figures at all if it takes 20 minutes to turn one one on for about a half hour before they need new batteries.

I just want a simple way without having wires everywhere to push a button and all my figures light up. By the time I turn my last figure on , my first one would be running out of battery.

The problem would be in places like the shoulders and the neck (and boots in those figures with light up soles). They have ball joints; although something could be done with those - 1/60 Gundam kits with electronics manage such a thing - it would make the manufacture more complex and push the prices up.

 

[Chris8907]

The problem would be in places like the shoulders and the neck (and boots in those figures with light up soles). They have ball joints; although something could be done with those - 1/60 Gundam kits with electronics manage such a thing - it would make the manufacture more complex and push the prices up.

I get that part, and like you said it is doable. We're already paying for a premium figure, the amount of work wouldn't be much more than it is, but oh well.

I'll just fork out money on SR kits for now or tinker and create my own. They are a bit pricey.

 

[blinguskahn]

No, no, no. DIY guys!

https://youtu.be/1MTphxSQygY

 

[rocbolt]

Hot Toys joints only bend 90-120 degrees, not enough to pinch cables. You allow a little give and that'll take care of that. It's not an impossible thing to design.

I just don't see the point in having LEDs in figures at all if it takes 20 minutes to turn one one on for about a half hour before they need new batteries.

I just want a simple way without having wires everywhere to push a button and all my figures light up. By the time I turn my last figure on , my first one would be running out of battery.

Every single wire would have to run though the hip joints- ball joints that can swivel 360 degrees. Legs and arms and head detach as well. Every "loose" wire that bends will fatigue. These figures break enough as it is, even some statues have gone to compartmentalized battery lights because when the wiring fails it cannot be fixed internally, and statues just have to sit there.

But hey, there is nothing stopping you from running internal wires yourself if you think that wouldn't make a figure into a fragile statue. We'd all like magic lights that turn on and off and don't use crap button batteries, but until there are some breakthroughs in inductive power transfer, that isn't going to happen.