Hot Toys stand question

[Cloud Warrior]

I want to try making my own stands. My plan is to make a basic base from super sculpty, cook it then glue on extras and paint.
I would like to use the hot toys back part of the stand (the part that houses the waist/crotch holders). As cooking the sculpty makes it shrink, putting the back stand in the sculpty to gain a perfect sized imprint to fit it would be useless.

Is there anything like a little socket to take the back part of the stand ?. I have seen that the HT Machiko stand has one so I hope its something that can be bought cheaply.

I would use and customize the stands I have but I have little faith in my ability's. If I could get the black stands cheap I would just buy and customize them, that would save the hassle of sculpting one, cooking and trying to get a socket in.

Is there anywhere that I could get some black stands cheap ?, doesn't necessary need to be HT, just one within scale. Has to be able to deliver to the UK. Feebay seems OK but I am always cheap and like to shop around. Want about 4 for now.

Apologies. This is so hard to explain and that just makes the above a little like a chore to read. Good on you if you have got this far.

 

[robbiethepainter]

https://www.toyanxiety.com/

Has HT stands for as little as $2.50

 

[MistahChewie]

While we're on the subject of Hot Toy Stands, are the name plates easily removable?

 

[Cloud Warrior]

Strange on toyanxiety, they list overseas shipping but the forms cant take my postcode/zip. In the UK our postcode goes XXXX XXX. Seem the website can only take 5 digits.

Think the postage would be high to, when I look at what I would order (about $6 worth) the shipping could end up higher than the items value.

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HT name plates. Do you mean remove the text or remove the whole raised section ?. If its just the text, I had someone make a little badge with the new name on and just glued it over.

If you want to totally remove the section I am unsure but I would guess that its moulded with the base. You would have to saw it off.

 

[robbiethepainter]

If i remember right they are just glued on. You can pop them off but you'll have to clean up the glue.

 

[galactiboy]

So from your post I'm guessing you want to make a customized base (like an environment) and then have the HT arm coming out it to hold the figure in place?

If that's the case (and you'd need the original HT arm anyway) I still think your best bet would be to buy a large order of stands from someone and just scuplt over top of them. Sculpy doesn't shrink up that much and if you bake it for short periods of time its unlikely to damage the plastic base.

Viking playground sells CalTek stands which are essentially HT knock-offs. If they ship internationally you might go that route.

 

[Cloud Warrior]

Thanks for the info.

Yeah the plan is to make my own environmental bases. They will be fairly basic, hope to do things like , glue moss everywhere for one, Id like to get some scale blades of grass for another and maybe a cut down tree for another. Apart from the moss it looks like I have to make the rest, just hope my efforts don't look to bad.

Will give Viking playground a look. As it seems that the socket is not made I may end up just buying a few black blank stands and then mod.
Just have to hope P&P is reasonable.

I gave feebay UK a look and found some pink barbie stands. Yes they are pink but they cost £2.30/$3.56. I have some acrylic paints, I believe they will stick to plastic OK ?.

Another silly question - The temp to cook sculpty would met the cheap plastic stand ?. I couldn't sculpt over the stand and then cook ?.

Thanks again.

 

[galactiboy]

I'm not 100% sure if it would cook it or not... I've put sculpey on other plastic and resin items and the temperature and cooking time didn't do any damage.

But, you can also cure Sculpey with a hair dryer, that just takes a bit of time.

Another is to buy Magic Sculpt; its a 2 part compound that you mix and it hardens over a few hours. I found it a bit messy to work with, but once you get used to it it can be invaluable for sculpting onto things that could be melted by baking.

 

[Crimsonbob]

Use milliput it dries solid in 2hrs and is cheap, easy to wet and smooth, sand and drill etc.

 

[Cloud Warrior]

Thanks for the posts.
That millput seems just right for me. As I am new to the creative side of a collector I am very reluctant to buy higher priced and standards supplies incase I simply cant preform to my own standard.
I did look at the 2 part apoxies but they seemed more for people that are confident in its use. Bigger amounts also seemed just to much for my approach.

With the millput I can buy one or two of the pink stands, make a millput base over it, let it sent and then paint. No cooking or big worries of mixing more advanced formats.

They cooking sculpty needs to be used, I just cant think of what to do with it. I did plan to make a predator mask but due to it needing a hot cooker I cant sculpt on the predator face. But as it could slowly be cured with a hair dryer does open it up more as a main format for me to use.

I also need to discover a suitable (for my needs) way to make a cast of a item and then fill to make a few copies. Another format that currently seems to cater for the more experienced with its descriptions and quantities. So far some liquid latex seems the best product for covering an item to create a mould.

Anyway, back from my future plans. Thank you again. Time and time again I am meet with users that are both knowledgeable and open to helping.