Dark Toys 1/6 Rick Deckard

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The only major complain I have after watching all of these pictures, is that horrid white stitching on the belt and holster. Looking forward to commission one to Gustavo Bautista.
 
I just use acrylics, airbrush or standard art paints, nothing special. I've found I prefer using airbrush paint with normal brushes too. It's more about technique, if you want to stain the surface, which is all I've done on this one so far, it's about rubbing colours in and the removing them, you smear the colour around while they're thin and be careful with wear you put them. It's kind of like using washes, but you need more pigment in the paint than those.

I'm definitely going be doing a full (bar the eyes) repaint of this head though, I'm done with the translucent nature of the material they used.
Once your smear the paint in do you leave on for a few minutes and then rub the excess color out ? Also what ratio paint to water would you uses and do you use a fine brush and q tips? A lot of questions I know . Thanks!
 
The only major complain I have after watching all of these pictures, is that horrid white stitching on the belt and holster. Looking forward to commission one to Gustavo Bautista.
I was just about to point out the very same thing. I'm thinking of toning it down some with a light wash of beige or off-white, to reduce the starkness of the white.
 
Please let use know what that would cost. Mine clear customs 5 days ago and is still waiting to leave HK.
I actually never bought from him but I asked him for a quote for another work. I’m sure it will cost under 60$, around 50 I think.
 
I just use acrylics, airbrush or standard art paints, nothing special. I've found I prefer using airbrush paint with normal brushes too. It's more about technique, if you want to stain the surface, which is all I've done on this one so far, it's about rubbing colours in and the removing them, you smear the colour around while they're thin and be careful with wear you put them. It's kind of like using washes, but you need more pigment in the paint than those.

I'm definitely going be doing a full (bar the eyes) repaint of this head though, I'm done with the translucent nature of the material they used.
Thanks for the tip currently wanted to practice on some useless head that I have in my bundle of parts
 
Playing with poses...Wire in the belt works a treat - had it tied behind until I noticed it hangs free in the film -

20220213_082414.jpg


...and I don't see the fuss regarding photographing the sculpt. Natural light and x2 zoom and voila...

20220129_154546.jpg


20220129_154239.jpg
 
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Lots of unpicking, wetting, smoothing, refitting, glueing. The detail piece is sewn in the bottom of the collar between the two layers and then on the inside as well as the visible stitches over the top. Getting it to fit in cloeer to the edge where it should be is a bit of a trial as you'd expect, but all good with the right amount of patience and Fabri-Tac.

Shirt collar looks great! Exactly as I imagined. So happy it worked well.

I'll be forever jealous about your jacket collar though. I won't be going that far I don't think.

The only major complain I have after watching all of these pictures, is that horrid white stitching on the belt and holster. Looking forward to commission one to Gustavo Bautista.

I agree. I was thinking about taking the white stitching out of the belt as well and just painting the top and bottom edge of the belt lighter tan as it is in the movie.
 
...and I don't see the fuss regarding photographing the sculpt. Natural light and x2 zoom and voila...

View attachment 562310


I definitely want to give the sculpt a wash at least to get rid of the waxy shine it has.

And I need to add that wire to the belt. That really helps alot! Could probably do that with the tie as well.
 
...and I don't see the fuss regarding photographing the sculpt. Natural light and x2 zoom and voila...

View attachment 562309

View attachment 562310

I took over a hundred photos that looked like that. The sculpt photographs with that waxy, translucent quality unlike every other sculpt I have.

The problem is photographing what it actually looks like under the lighting that brings the best out of it.
 
Once your smear the paint in do you leave on for a few minutes and then rub the excess color out ? Also what ratio paint to water would you uses and do you use a fine brush and q tips? A lot of questions I know . Thanks!
The trick for the smearing is using q-tips on these heads. It allows your to move the paint into areas gradually to give natural shading. And if you don't like it, you just wet another one and take it off. Apply the paint with a tiny paint brush and then work it around with the q-tip. This technique lets your play the trial and error game until you get it right. I can't really give you an exact ratio for the paint.. but it's not as thin as a wash.. maybe about a quarter of the volume as water? I work on a piece of carboard and use small amount of paint and water. I always do a final mix flesh tones directly on the back of my hand for colour matching or difference. Bear in mind 'scaled' paint is never like 1:1 pain, the colours change with scaling, usually darker,

Experimenting on a spare head that doesn't matter is definitely the best way to learn.
Your eye for colour is going to help much, much more than 'perfecting' this technique though.
Trying to match an existing skin tone on the head so it's invisible where you painted is a great exercise in colour matching.

I hate doing uniform sealing of a portrait as it sucks all the life out of it. I usually mix up varying satin, matt and gloss finishes to seal different areas with. Even doing grades of satin and matt randomly helps. I never buy into a lot of this sealing your work with coats and coats of varnish mentaility. I mean, it's not an action figure your grabbing the head of and wrenching around. I've got resin kits I painted 25 years ago and have barely one coat of a sealer on them and still look the same. Just use quality paint or brands that have earned your trust. I stick to Createx, Vallejo and Jo Sonja these days for most everything.

Good luck with your experiment! Feel free to post your results or ask me questions via the messaging on here. Only too happy to help if I can.
 
Thanks for kind words!
The magic trick of getting the out of scale stitches away from the portrait does wonders.

Still on my list:
PK-D triggers and guard thinning, add some paint wear
Belt and holster accuracy/paint
Portrait repaint
Shade/stain hands
Fill soles of the shoes and repaint/weather
Add missing buttons to outer jacket
Water stain/shade outer jacket
General fabric wetting/scrunching
Paint the unicorn more accurately.

And I'd LOVE to do something similar that Marine Boy's done with the VK machine!! Outstanding work.His final results will probably force my hand on that.

Haha, I'm sure there'll be more items added to the list as I move along.
 
The trick for the smearing is using q-tips on these heads. It allows your to move the paint into areas gradually to give natural shading. And if you don't like it, you just wet another one and take it off. Apply the paint with a tiny paint brush and then work it around with the q-tip. This technique lets your play the trial and error game until you get it right. I can't really give you an exact ratio for the paint.. but it's not as thin as a wash.. maybe about a quarter of the volume as water? I work on a piece of carboard and use small amount of paint and water. I always do a final mix flesh tones directly on the back of my hand for colour matching or difference. Bear in mind 'scaled' paint is never like 1:1 pain, the colours change with scaling, usually darker,

Experimenting on a spare head that doesn't matter is definitely the best way to learn.
Your eye for colour is going to help much, much more than 'perfecting' this technique though.
Trying to match an existing skin tone on the head so it's invisible where you painted is a great exercise in colour matching.

I hate doing uniform sealing of a portrait as it sucks all the life out of it. I usually mix up varying satin, matt and gloss finishes to seal different areas with. Even doing grades of satin and matt randomly helps. I never buy into a lot of this sealing your work with coats and coats of varnish mentaility. I mean, it's not an action figure your grabbing the head of and wrenching around. I've got resin kits I painted 25 years ago and have barely one coat of a sealer on them and still look the same. Just use quality paint or brands that have earned your trust. I stick to Createx, Vallejo and Jo Sonja these days for most everything.

Good luck with your experiment! Feel free to post your results or ask me questions via the messaging on here. Only too happy to help if I can.
Thanks for the info , it's appreciated.
 
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