BESTA love and idea thread

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Ikea do have a website... You know?



:monkey3

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:lol
 
Yeah, just did some measurements. I'll start with the single PAXs. They'll be perfect. :rock

Super pumped.
 
Alright. I'm rounding out my final questions....*surprise!* :lol

Are there doors for the SINGLE PAX system? If so, links? I can find the double sliding doors like Lotus posted, but not for singles. (Col, is that what you were getting at?)

Did you guys by the individual shelves from ikea or make them? (Regardless, any links?)
 
Alright. I'm rounding out my final questions....*surprise!* :lol

Are there doors for the SINGLE PAX system? If so, links? I can find the double sliding doors like Lotus posted, but not for singles. (Col, is that what you were getting at?)

Did you guys by the individual shelves from ikea or make them? (Regardless, any links?)

Thanks for rep :hi5: as for using a single 29" wide Pax you dont have any real options for a Door from Ikea. People who have used a single Pax unit leave the front open.

If you are into modding, you can build a wooden frame out of crown molding to encapsulate the Acrylic panel. That is easier said than done and will take a lot of precise measurements for a nice finished product.

Your other option is to get the Acrylic sheet cut so it goes from edge to edge of the Pax unit. You could line the Acrylic with industrial black Velcro which is sold in 15 foot rolls in 1" and 2" wide variety. This would give you a nice 1" or 2" black boarder around the edge of the Acrylic. You have one shot to apply the Velcro in a clean edge pattern. I have done this for another cabinet I built. The Velcro will also be a dust free seal BUT will be very hard to remove the acrylic if you want to re arrange your collection. The Industrial Velcro is no joke and once the hook and loop mate they, it causes a very tight bond. You literately need to take your fingers and start at top or bottom to work your way around to remove without flexing the acrylic too much.

14549174723_eb91b55faa_c.jpg



This cabinet I built has a 2" black Velcro border all around the Acrylic. Like I said when I have to re arrange , it takes me about 15 minutes of starting in one corner and sliding my finger all around the edge while making sure I dont flex the acrylic too much.


I think the Velcro way would be the easiest mod than building a wooden frame for the acrylic. Take the Scratchy side of the Velcro and line up to the Edges of the Acrylic. The idea is you want a Clean edge Black boarder using the factory 1" width of the roll. Work you way around the Acrylic edges cutting Strips that form a Black border all the way around with no gaps.

Now that you have cut your strips have another person holding the strip of Velcro above you while you carefully walk the Velcro down the edge of the acrylic. You have ONE shot during this process, once it sticks to acrylic you'll never get it off and if you did you would see a major amount of glue marks from the industrial glue used. Now that you have it cleanly applied to the Acrylic you can work on applying to the PAX edges.

For the Pax Edges you need to wipe down with rubbing alcohol to remove any grease or residue from factory. Just a microfiber towel and a little bit of rubbing alcohol is all I would use. You will need to cut with sharp scissors the Soft fuzzy side of Velcro to match the thickness of the Pax Edges, the Pax edges will not be 1" wide all around. I think they are around 3/4 " wide. The idea with Velcro is it gets its strength by both sides firmly attached to each surface. If you slap the 1" Velcro on the 3/4 edge then you lose a lot of strength because the overhang will cause it to loosen.

Keep in mind you already have a nice 1" Black Boarder on the Acrylic that you will see so you will never see the Pax fuzzy edges due to it being smaller than the 1" black boarder.

Well I know this is a lot to take in, but you can do it. There are many ways to make frames out of wood and hinges too. You can also install hinges into the Acrylic, just buy an acrylic drill bit and let the Drill bit do the work, you Don't ever apply pressure while drilling the bit will do the work for you. With this method you will see the hinges and have no black boarder. Plus its easy to "WALK" a drill bit across acrylic and cause a scratch.

I have a background in Engineering so my mind thinks this way. I like to tinker with stuff to understand how things work. I dont know you, but I feel anyone can do this. Just take your time, Measure Twice cut once mentality.

:hi5:
 
Thanks for rep :hi5: as for using a single 29" wide Pax you dont have any real options for a Door from Ikea. People who have used a single Pax unit leave the front open.

If you are into modding, you can build a wooden frame out of crown molding to encapsulate the Acrylic panel. That is easier said than done and will take a lot of precise measurements for a nice finished product.

Your other option is to get the Acrylic sheet cut so it goes from edge to edge of the Pax unit. You could line the Acrylic with industrial black Velcro which is sold in 15 foot rolls in 1" and 2" wide variety. This would give you a nice 1" or 2" black boarder around the edge of the Acrylic. You have one shot to apply the Velcro in a clean edge pattern. I have done this for another cabinet I built. The Velcro will also be a dust free seal BUT will be very hard to remove the acrylic if you want to re arrange your collection. The Industrial Velcro is no joke and once the hook and loop mate they, it causes a very tight bond. You literately need to take your fingers and start at top or bottom to work your way around to remove without flexing the acrylic too much.

14549174723_eb91b55faa_c.jpg



This cabinet I built has a 2" black Velcro border all around the Acrylic. Like I said when I have to re arrange , it takes me about 15 minutes of starting in one corner and sliding my finger all around the edge while making sure I dont flex the acrylic too much.


I think the Velcro way would be the easiest mod than building a wooden frame for the acrylic. Take the Scratchy side of the Velcro and line up to the Edges of the Acrylic. The idea is you want a Clean edge Black boarder using the factory 1" width of the roll. Work you way around the Acrylic edges cutting Strips that form a Black border all the way around with no gaps.

Now that you have cut your strips have another person holding the strip of Velcro above you while you carefully walk the Velcro down the edge of the acrylic. You have ONE shot during this process, once it sticks to acrylic you'll never get it off and if you did you would see a major amount of glue marks from the industrial glue used. Now that you have it cleanly applied to the Acrylic you can work on applying to the PAX edges.

For the Pax Edges you need to wipe down with rubbing alcohol to remove any grease or residue from factory. Just a microfiber towel and a little bit of rubbing alcohol is all I would use. You will need to cut with sharp scissors the Soft fuzzy side of Velcro to match the thickness of the Pax Edges, the Pax edges will not be 1" wide all around. I think they are around 3/4 " wide. The idea with Velcro is it gets its strength by both sides firmly attached to each surface. If you slap the 1" Velcro on the 3/4 edge then you lose a lot of strength because the overhang will cause it to loosen.

Keep in mind you already have a nice 1" Black Boarder on the Acrylic that you will see so you will never see the Pax fuzzy edges due to it being smaller than the 1" black boarder.

Well I know this is a lot to take in, but you can do it. There are many ways to make frames out of wood and hinges too. You can also install hinges into the Acrylic, just buy an acrylic drill bit and let the Drill bit do the work, you Don't ever apply pressure while drilling the bit will do the work for you. With this method you will see the hinges and have no black boarder. Plus its easy to "WALK" a drill bit across acrylic and cause a scratch.

I have a background in Engineering so my mind thinks this way. I like to tinker with stuff to understand how things work. I dont know you, but I feel anyone can do this. Just take your time, Measure Twice cut once mentality.

:hi5:

That is all kinds of awesome. I'm speechless. Seriously. Thank you! :rock :rock :rock
 
So I'm having an in-wall custom shelving display put in my 'man-cave'. I still plan on getting the PAX as well though.

Few things:

- For those of use with the plexiglass/acyrillic doors, where did you get them? Are they UV protected? I read Home Depot and Lowes commonly carry them and from what I've read, they are UV protected. My pieces are never in direct light, but like 99.9% of us, there will be light in the room. :lol I want to take extra pre-caution. Thoughts? Lotus, you're my go-to on this. What say you?

- I'm also looking to get 'shorter' display units that I can line a wall with, and yet still be able to display things ON the wall. So basically I'm looking for an Ikea until that about 4 feet tall. Enough to fit about 2 rows of pieces. Any advice on what to get?
 
So I'm having an in-wall custom shelving display put in my 'man-cave'. I still plan on getting the PAX as well though.

Few things:

- For those of use with the plexiglass/acyrillic doors, where did you get them? Are they UV protected? I read Home Depot and Lowes commonly carry them and from what I've read, they are UV protected. My pieces are never in direct light, but like 99.9% of us, there will be light in the room. :lol I want to take extra pre-caution. Thoughts? Lotus, you're my go-to on this. What say you?

- I'm also looking to get 'shorter' display units that I can line a wall with, and yet still be able to display things ON the wall. So basically I'm looking for an Ikea until that about 4 feet tall. Enough to fit about 2 rows of pieces. Any advice on what to get?

When I bought Acrylic sheets, I went for what was cheap. The rooms I use for my collectibles have no sunlight so I never had any thoughts to ask my supplier. Most people in this Besta thread are using Ikea Tombo,Glassvik,Sidvink glass doors. Are they UV protective....Don't know :) Like you said as long as your display is not in direct sunlight they will be fine.
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Home Depot / Lowes doesn't have much of an assortment. I would google for local Acrylic / Plexiglass shops in your area. These suppliers are closer than you would think. You may even drive by them on the way to work not knowing they are there. Good thing about local suppliers is they have scrap sheets which may have been cut wrong for another customer they sell these panels at a reduced rate.

You can also buy online, but shipping is going to be a large added cost. Plexiglass Acrylic Sheets When you buy online you get one shot, so make sure your measurements are perfect.
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As far as the 4ft tall bookshelf you can line up a bunch of the smaller Stuva frames next to each other. They are on sale for 39.00 each.
this is your best value and provides nice 19" depth
Children's Storage Frames - IKEA
Product dimensions
Width: 23 5/8 "
Depth: 19 5/8 "
Height: 50 3/8 "
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You can also go with Gallant office furniture. Little less deep, but has a wider shelf than Stuva.
GALANT Shelf unit - white - IKEA
Product dimensions
Width: 31 1/2 "
Depth: 17 3/4 "
Height: 47 1/4 "
Max load/shelf: 66 lb
 
Thanks for the info. I'll definitely look more in the doors. I have plenty of time. I'm hoping to have everything set up by the end of May.

I'm feeling that Galant shelf unit though. The Stuva would be perfect if it were for the color. I love the white, but it won't 'match' the room. Bookmarked that page though.
 
I called around today about the acryllic panes - approx. $100 a sheet - and I'll need two for each Pax system - they are UV protected. So not terribly bad.
 
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