artist turning to sculpting and tailoring needs help!!!

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hotcus6

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OK so I'm a new collector, but have been drawing and painting and tattooing for all my life( except the tattooing)

And I want to start sculpting heads and mods but I have no idea what I need, here's a list of what I need help with

which version of sculpy to get

tools

the pegs to hold the heads

How to get the clay hard( proper way to cook)

And any little tips anyone can give for a new sculptor


as for the tailoring...

What's the best kind of stitch pattern

What sized needle

Machine or hand sewn



If anyone can help me I would be forever in your debt...

Thanks and I hope to have some stuff up for judgement soon! LoL
 
Not a customizer myself but there is a how to in the arts and customs section probably find a few answers to your questions there,good luck with it.
 
For sculpting, sculpy firm is what I like. Its harder so it retains detail better than super sculpy. Read the directions on baking.
Almost every sculptor ends up making their own tools. From dowel rods sharpened on the end to old dental tools, there really is only what you think works best. The beginning get a good set of really small loop tools and just look around your house for stuff after that.
Sewing in this scale is very similar to full size but the order of assembly becomes more important. Also you can't just buy a pattern in this scale so everything has to be created through trial and error. The more experience the less error. Sewing machines and hand stitching are both valid just depends on the needs. Selecting fabric is the most challenging becuase what we want and need don't exactly line up with what the fabric industry makes its material for. The thinner the material the better the scale but often times means harder to work with. But too thick of material will make the customs look awful. One of the hardest jobs in this hobby which is why there are only a few that make really well tailored clothes which means the demand is high along with the price.
 
I also use sculpy, but found firm to be too firm... although it seems there is quite a range of firmness when you buy it at the store.

But anyway, what I do is use a 50/50 mix of firm and super; that gives you more pliable product, but its not bubble gum soft like the super and the grey color does make it a lot easier to see what you are doing.

A helpful tip for sculpey is to buy some 90% rubbing alcohol and use it to smooth out your sculpt before you bake it. I use a small soft brush and if you go over the sculpt it helps smooth out bumps and remove any stray marks or fingerprints.
 
Straight stitch, with a 60 or 70 needle, thinner material as mentioned. And practice! I started by reverse engineering ready made 1/6 stuff...it's quite ingeniously put together, especially the lined stuff. And yes it does need attention paid to order of assembly or you can end up with a pig's ear.
Never tried Sculpey, I now use Monster Clay...does need a waste mould though, as it's a non-setting wax it can't be used for an original, paintable head like Sculpey. Also unlike Sculpey it can be melted and cast! Very handy for afterthought tweaks.
 
Thanks for all the advice, the last thing I need to know is what brand of paint, an kind is best for painting head sculpts?

I would also like to know best for of application, brush, airbrush, paint marker....I've never done it so I have no idea which paint and style gets the best result...

And finally I need to know what is the formula for the best looking blood, as they best way to apply it so it looks real...
 
hotcus6 said:
And finally I need to know what is the formula for the best looking blood, as they best way to apply it so it looks real...

Difficult to answer without knowing what sort of bleeding you're trying to simulate, but if you search this section for "blood" you'll find quite a few suggested methods. :)
 
I've found that to simulate menstruation you can't go far wrong with Tamiya X-9 with a touch of brown around the edges.
 
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