Alamo Drafthouse Posters

[SwedishHeat]

Anybody get any notifications that their Stout posters shipped yet, because I haven't. I'd love to have my ESB poster by the end of the week.

I don't think they've come back to work yet. I've had an email out to them since Friday with no response. The Twitter's been quiet, I think they're all in hibernation.

 

[Mesa]

Framed my Moss set today, took me a few hours. Will hang soon, then some pics.

 

[Boba Ben]

Mesa, if you don't mind me asking, could you tell me how you framed the Olly Moss prints? I know most places don't have frames that are the right size to matte pieces that are at 24X36. I'd really like to know how to do it so I don't have to have my Tyler Stouts custom framed as that would come to a hefty sum.

 

[The Boot]

Mesa, if you don't mind me asking, could you tell me how you framed the Olly Moss prints? I know most places don't have frames that are the right size to matte pieces that are at 24X36. I'd really like to know how to do it so I don't have to have my Tyler Stouts custom framed as that would come to a hefty sum.

Obviously, I'm not Mesa, but just buy some off-the-shelf 24x36 frames and stick 'em in there, man! This one is from freakin' Target...

I mean, if you absolutely need to have them matted, I have seen some people buy custom-cut 24x36 mattes and put them in standard 27x40 frames but that can look a little odd because of the extra verticle inch. It's cheaper than a total custom frame job, though.

Bottom line is, if you're looking to avoid custom costs, stick with standard, off-the-rack frames. Your bank account will thank you for it.

 

[icruise]

That one from Target might actually work for my Stout prints. How thick is the bezel?

 

[Boba Ben]

I agree. Your Moss looks awesome in the Target frame and a 24X36 in an 27X40 frame might look a little weird. I guess the reason I was thinking about the matte option is that I've heard that if you just put the poster directly in the frame, it can stick to the glass and damage the print. On the other hand, I don't intend to ever sell them and just want to put them on my wall, so it might not matter that much. I've also heard that adding spacers is another option, but I wouldn't know how to do this myself.

 

[The Boot]

That one from Target might actually work for my Stout prints. How thick is the bezel?

It's got a nice, solid 1 inch wide bezel (and it's about .75" deep) but it's Target's "higher-end" 24x36 frame, so it's relatively pricey at $30.

 

[icruise]

It looks a lot like the Michaels one I have in terms of style, but I believe the bezel on the Michaels one was more like 1.25 or 1.5 inches, which made it just a hair too big to fit where I want it. I guess I could try the Target one and see how it works. I really hope the Stout prints aren't slightly too big like some have been. I don't want to have to trim them!

 

[The Boot]

I agree. Your Moss looks awesome in the Target frame and a 24X36 in an 27X40 frame might look a little weird. I guess the reason I was thinking about the matte option is that I've heard that if you just put the poster directly in the frame, it can stick to the glass and damage the print. On the other hand, I don't intend to ever sell them and just want to put them on my wall, so it might not matter that much. I've also heard that adding spacers is another option, but I wouldn't know how to do this myself.

Well, that is always a danger but, and I can only speak from my own experiences, I've never had that issue.

There are all sorts of things to worry about...wood frames can hold moisture which can damage the paper, sunlight can fade it, the wrong type (not acid-free) matte can affect the print. The list goes on and on. Again, it really just comes down to what price you're willing to pay. You can step up and have it done archival style for big money or you can go with standard off-the-shelf stuff, exercise a little caution (no direct sunlight, etc.) and save some dough.

It might even be a good idea to ask around at Art Supply/Craft/Framing stores. I'm sure someone could point you in the right direction when it comes to choosing a frame and using spacers and whatnot.

 

[Chapter 2099]

I agree. Your Moss looks awesome in the Target frame and a 24X36 in an 27X40 frame might look a little weird. I guess the reason I was thinking about the matte option is that I've heard that if you just put the poster directly in the frame, it can stick to the glass and damage the print. On the other hand, I don't intend to ever sell them and just want to put them on my wall, so it might not matter that much. I've also heard that adding spacers is another option, but I wouldn't know how to do this myself.

Boba, I'm a an expert when it comes to frames. Why? Because I've literally had all of the above happen to me and learned the hard way.

Add that to the fact that I live in a relatively humid environment and you have a recipe for disaster.

1.) Use matting. I really don't recommend framing anything without it. The chemicals in the print can react upon contact with the glass and BOOM! Disaster.

2.) Use acid-free matting. If not, the chemicals in the print will react with those in the matting and BOOM! Disaster.

3.) Use U/V protected glass. Even if it's not in direct sunlight, the print can still fade. Yes, the glass is more expensive and no, you won't see anything until years down the road, but still keep it in mind. (This shouldn't be a top priority though.

4.) Get the back of the frame sealed. Again for areas with lots of humidity, you may want to put that higher up on your priority list. It's just a good way to keep the "bad" stuff (ie. humidity out.)

5.) Don't bother with spacers. They're a waste of money. Trust me. Trust me. Trust me. Stick with matting.

Bottom line: Humidity and print chemicals are your worst enemy. Respect them. And they'll respect you. If you don't live in an environment with humidity, you've already won half the battle.

I've got my first Alamo Drafthouse poster coming, so I'm already looking for a suitable set-up. It costs an arm and a leg to do it right, which is my all of my autographs are sitting in my closet, meticulously separated from each other using acid-free paper. It's the only way I know they're safe, until I can afford to frame them properly.

 

[icruise]

For me in the majority of cases, it's just not worth spending hundreds per item to get something custom framed with archival materials. If something that's one-of-a-kind, maybe. Given the secondary value of the Moss and Stout prints, it's certainly worth thinking about how to preserve them, but on the other hand I don't think it's worth spending $200 to $300 to frame a print that's only worth around that much to begin with.

 

[Mesa]

Ufortunately when the print is 24x36, you're pretty limited with what size matte you can use. For smaller prints, I still use something close to 24x36 frame, and size the matte to allow for a 1-3 inch border.

For these, I used a 24x36 (largest size at Michael's), and just had a 24x36 matte cut with an inner dimension of 22x34, which gives me a 1 inch border on all sides. Not much, but I think it looks a little better than just the poster inside a frame. Basically you just cover the white perimeter of the poster with a beveled cardboard matte to give it a finished look.

Turned out great with the exception of ESB because the 1" border on the top just covers part of Boba's helmet antenna at the top of the print, which I didn't forsee. I'm not changing it now.

If I could have found a 28x40 frame I could have had a ~2" matte border and not have covered up any of the print, which would have been optimum.

 

[Something Sexy]

Boba, I'm a an expert when it comes to frames. Why? Because I've literally had all of the above happen to me and learned the hard way.

Add that to the fact that I live in a relatively humid environment and you have a recipe for disaster.

1.) Use matting. I really don't recommend framing anything without it. The chemicals in the print can react upon contact with the glass and BOOM! Disaster.

2.) Use acid-free matting. If not, the chemicals in the print will react with those in the matting and BOOM! Disaster.

3.) Use U/V protected glass. Even if it's not in direct sunlight, the print can still fade. Yes, the glass is more expensive and no, you won't see anything until years down the road, but still keep it in mind. (This shouldn't be a top priority though.

4.) Get the back of the frame sealed. Again for areas with lots of humidity, you may want to put that higher up on your priority list. It's just a good way to keep the "bad" stuff (ie. humidity out.)

5.) Don't bother with spacers. They're a waste of money. Trust me. Trust me. Trust me. Stick with matting.

Bottom line: Humidity and print chemicals are your worst enemy. Respect them. And they'll respect you. If you don't live in an environment with humidity, you've already won half the battle.

I've got my first Alamo Drafthouse poster coming, so I'm already looking for a suitable set-up. It costs an arm and a leg to do it right, which is my all of my autographs are sitting in my closet, meticulously separated from each other using acid-free paper. It's the only way I know they're safe, until I can afford to frame them properly.

I am glad you are finally jumping on. What do you have coming?

 

[Mesa]

Boba, I'm a an expert when it comes to frames. Why? Because I've literally had all of the above happen to me and learned the hard way.

Add that to the fact that I live in a relatively humid environment and you have a recipe for disaster.

1.) Use matting. I really don't recommend framing anything without it. The chemicals in the print can react upon contact with the glass and BOOM! Disaster.

2.) Use acid-free matting. If not, the chemicals in the print will react with those in the matting and BOOM! Disaster.

3.) Use U/V protected glass. Even if it's not in direct sunlight, the print can still fade. Yes, the glass is more expensive and no, you won't see anything until years down the road, but still keep it in mind. (This shouldn't be a top priority though.

4.) Get the back of the frame sealed. Again for areas with lots of humidity, you may want to put that higher up on your priority list. It's just a good way to keep the "bad" stuff (ie. humidity out.)

5.) Don't bother with spacers. They're a waste of money. Trust me. Trust me. Trust me. Stick with matting.

Bottom line: Humidity and print chemicals are your worst enemy. Respect them. And they'll respect you. If you don't live in an environment with humidity, you've already won half the battle.

I've got my first Alamo Drafthouse poster coming, so I'm already looking for a suitable set-up. It costs an arm and a leg to do it right, which is my all of my autographs are sitting in my closet, meticulously separated from each other using acid-free paper. It's the only way I know they're safe, until I can afford to frame them properly.

I was talking to the girl at Michael's about what I should do for long term storage in a frame. She recommended to use framer's tape around the frame so the poster doesn'ttouch the wooden frame, which may have oils that could bleed onto the print. I haven't done this on any of the 8 posters I've had framed.

I also asked about the cardboard, if it's safe to sit against the back of the print. She didn't sound like it was too big of a deal to use the cardboard that comes with generic frames, but she said you could use foam backer board. She showed me this in the store. They didn't have any that was 24x36 in size and it seemed lot thicker than the cardboard, so I don't know if I could fit the back part of the frame (made of particle board) back within the frame and get the clips secured. She did say to never have the print touching that particle backer, because of the oils in the wood could again bleed onto the print. So I'm just sticking with the generic cardboard for now.

I'm considering going to a glazier and have some sheet glass with UV protection and antiglare cut to size and replace the glass that came with the frames, but haven't decided yet. I'm guessing I could get that done for maybe another $25 a frame.

 

[Bamboota]

Boba, I'm a an expert when it comes to frames. Why? Because I've literally had all of the above happen to me and learned the hard way.

Add that to the fact that I live in a relatively humid environment and you have a recipe for disaster.

1.) Use matting. I really don't recommend framing anything without it. The chemicals in the print can react upon contact with the glass and BOOM! Disaster.

2.) Use acid-free matting. If not, the chemicals in the print will react with those in the matting and BOOM! Disaster.

3.) Use U/V protected glass. Even if it's not in direct sunlight, the print can still fade. Yes, the glass is more expensive and no, you won't see anything until years down the road, but still keep it in mind. (This shouldn't be a top priority though.

4.) Get the back of the frame sealed. Again for areas with lots of humidity, you may want to put that higher up on your priority list. It's just a good way to keep the "bad" stuff (ie. humidity out.)

5.) Don't bother with spacers. They're a waste of money. Trust me. Trust me. Trust me. Stick with matting.

Bottom line: Humidity and print chemicals are your worst enemy. Respect them. And they'll respect you. If you don't live in an environment with humidity, you've already won half the battle.

I've got my first Alamo Drafthouse poster coming, so I'm already looking for a suitable set-up. It costs an arm and a leg to do it right, which is my all of my autographs are sitting in my closet, meticulously separated from each other using acid-free paper. It's the only way I know they're safe, until I can afford to frame them properly.

This was awesome Chap, especially with all the humidity info!! We both know how it is to live in Florida! -___-

 

[Chapter 2099]

This was awesome Chap, especially with all the humidity info!! We both know how it is to live in Florida! -___-

It sucks, doesn't it!?!?

I found out all of this through trial and error, asking around etc. etc. I wish I would have known what I do now, back then. It would have saved me A LOT of headache.

I'm definitely interested to see how everyone frames their pieces. I'm still learning in many ways. Like I said, I've got one coming Saturday or Monday and want to get something that will present well and protect it, but NOT break the bank. Framing is way too expensive IMO.

I'll try to get something this weekend or early next week, depending on when it arrives.

 

[Boba Ben]

Thanks for the info Chapter, Mesa, Boot, Icruise. I'm sorry to hear about your hardships with your items Chapter. I will have to take all of your advice into consideration. I had my Whalen Jabba custom framed without a matte and it is sealed up. I do not plan on removing it from the frame, so it will most likely stay in their forever. It was about $100 due to a sale going on to have it done.

I'm thinking I want to do something special for the Tyler Stout's to protect them. Mesa's mentioning of a 24X36 matte border around the poster sounds pretty good and is something I will consider for these. I have also heard about the framer's tape, but I don't think that is something I'd feel comfortable doing with them as I don't want to mess it up and destroy something as I have no experience with framing tape or anything like that.

 

[Something Sexy]

I am glad you are finally jumping on. What do you have coming?

It sucks, doesn't it!?!?

I found out all of this through trial and error, asking around etc. etc. I wish I would have known what I do now, back then. It would have saved me A LOT of headache.

I'm definitely interested to see how everyone frames their pieces. I'm still learning in many ways. Like I said, I've got one coming Saturday or Monday and want to get something that will present well and protect it, but NOT break the bank. Framing is way too expensive IMO.

I'll try to get something this weekend or early next week, depending on when it arrives.

 

[Boba Ben]

I second Sexy's question. What are you getting Chapter 2099?

 

[Chapter 2099]

I second Sexy's question. What are you getting Chapter 2099?

Sorry SS, didn't even see the post.

As for the poster...

I'll post a pic when it arrives. Nothing big. Just a cool piece that caught my eye. I don't like posting stuff BEFORE it arrives in hand because with my luck, it will somehow get destroyed in the mail and I'll end up with "egg on my face."