What paint to use to repaint?

[8th wonder]

I'm hopefully getting the big V-rex vs Kong statue soon. The only thing that bothers me about this great statue is that they left out the grey silverback's streak on his back. So i'm planning to repaint his back. I however have never repainted a collectible. What kind of paint should i use?

 

[Elder_Predator2]

You might want to try Testor's Model Master Acyrlic Acyrl or Tamiya Color Acrylics. The two are water solluble, meaning you don't have to deal with any nasty cleaners. I personally prefer Testor's, but they are a little bit more pricey than Tamiya, whitch work fine also.

 

[8th wonder]

But they come of with water don't they? I want a more permanent paint. I prefer the paint they used to paint the polystone with originally, don't know what that is though.

 

[hemble]

I use Vallejo or Reaper miniature paints alot they are brillant, Valljo is mainly used on military models and Reapers are usde on gaming figures but I've found that they work on anything.

The only thing is if you do use them you'll have to give the model/figure you are going to paint a quick wash with warm soapy water to get rid of any left over residue. And I always seal the paints using Testors dull coate this helps binds the paints.

Ron

 

[Elder_Predator2]

But they come of with water don't they? I want a more permanent paint. I prefer the paint they used to paint the polystone with originally, don't know what that is though.

They are water solluble, but once they dry they don't come off unless you use rubbing alcohol, or so I'm told they come off with that. They are really great, d theat's what the figure master uses.

 

[DarkArtist81]

I use Model Masters Acryl as well. They are top notch paints, and you don't get large granules in your mix.

 

[paulcarson]

Anyone in the UK recommend any good paints ? We can't get the Model master paint range in the UK due to some of the chemicals used in the paint .

 

[Rogue Trooper]

I use a mix of Game Workshop paints for most repaints and Tamiya paints for hardware.

Game workshop have released some new foundation paints which are really nice except theres not many of them and flesh colour is a strange tone.

 

[8th wonder]

I just need a light grey colour, like this (the silver streak):

i will look into those Model Masters Acryl paints.

Thanks guys!

 

[customizerwannabe]

I have found the cheap craft paints work as well as the most expensive ones out there. Spend less and paint more.

 

[paulcarson]

I use a mix of Game Workshop paints for most repaints and Tamiya paints for hardware.

Game workshop have released some new foundation paints which are really nice except theres not many of them and flesh colour is a strange tone.

Cheers Ian !

 

[Les Walker]

Testor's Model Master Acryl Acrylics
They are a type of acrylic enamel (Not be be confused with oil based enamels that take paint thinner to thin and clean, as these are indeed water based, but are NOT cheap paints..as they bond to almost all plastics, metals, even some rubbers and most all vinyls and for sure, polystone!)
I use them almost exclusively, as they do not need primers before, or coats of clears after, to bond to surfaces, or to stay on. For your information, I am repainting my Jaws maquette, which is a polystone sculpt, with the Testors Acryls.

I never use cheaper craft paints, as they often are larger grain pigment (the color particles in the paint) which do sometimes leave a minute grain pebbling on skin and other fine surfaces, and use cheaper carrier or base (the liguid the pigment is immersed in) that will not adhere well to some surfaces, and the Testors acrylic enamels WILL bond well to most surfaces. In fact, I have had to remove heads or parts I have painted, from finished works, (my own...I assure you) and have really had to manhandle the part to get it loose, heat it, whatever, with no loss of paint from the surface.

There indeed may be a better paint for polystone, but I use the Testors. Swear by it. I should sell the stuff!


(I am curious as to what paints customizerwannabe is using, and on what, and if it needs primer and coatings to bond...as I apparently haven't had his luck with them myself...)

 

[small_studios]

I use Liquitex Concentrated Acrylic Paints. There are alot of paints that will work great but i have foud this brand works well. It really comes down to your technique you use to apply and mix the colors.

 

[Elder_Predator2]

I have found the cheap craft paints work as well as the most expensive ones out there. Spend less and paint more.

What you using to paint man.

 

[JustinLuck]

I purchased Liquitex because I could not find Testors in stores around here. But I'm assuming Testors is better?

 

[Elder_Predator2]

I think it is. I've found it in any hobby store, like model airplane stores, and Hobby Lobby.

 

[paulcarson]

Les , could you offer up a similar alternative to the Testors ? I was going to go with the vallejo paints ( for miniatures etc ) and see how I went with those.

 

[8th wonder]

Testor's Model Master Acryl Acrylics
They are a type of acrylic enamel (Not be be confused with oil based enamels that take paint thinner to thin and clean, as these are indeed water based, but are NOT cheap paints..as they bond to almost all plastics, metals, even some rubbers and most all vinyls and for sure, polystone!)
I use them almost exclusively, as they do not need primers before, or coats of clears after, to bond to surfaces, or to stay on. For your information, I am repainting my Jaws maquette, which is a polystone sculpt, with the Testors Acryls.

I never use cheaper craft paints, as they often are larger grain pigment (the color particles in the paint) which do sometimes leave a minute grain pebbling on skin and other fine surfaces, and use cheaper carrier or base (the liguid the pigment is immersed in) that will not adhere well to some surfaces, and the Testors acrylic enamels WILL bond well to most surfaces. In fact, I have had to remove heads or parts I have painted, from finished works, (my own...I assure you) and have really had to manhandle the part to get it loose, heat it, whatever, with no loss of paint from the surface.

There indeed may be a better paint for polystone, but I use the Testors. Swear by it. I should sell the stuff!


(I am curious as to what paints customizerwannabe is using, and on what, and if it needs primer and coatings to bond...as I apparently haven't had his luck with them myself...)

So you can just paint over the old paint? No need to remove the original paintjob first?

 

[nervecenter0]

I'm in the UK and I tend to use tamiya acrylics, as a base coat, then work on top with a mix of standard artist acrylics and pastels. I then seal it all with a matt varnish.

 

[Les Walker]

So you can just paint over the old paint? No need to remove the original paintjob first?

Unless the old paint is REALLY gummy and thick, I yes, I repaint right over the old. Especially on SS heads as they are very thin layers. Most of the time. Depends on the original. (I have found that removing the old paint doesn't always get it out of deep recesses, and can make detail matters worse...)

I do paint it directly on to resin or vinyl heads though, that are bare, as opposed to priming. If the heads are washed and clean, it bonds directly to the surface, and if your layers are thin, you do not see brushstrokes. It's all in the layering.

Paul Carson, I think you can get it directly from Testors, but this brand is hard to get in the UK for some reason. I sent some to Hurricane, so maybe I can send you some if need be.
Here's where I get mine when I am not raiding a hobby shop:
TESTORS ACRYL PAINTS FOR ORDER