1/6 Hot Toys Custom Hall of Armor Projects / Display Base Mods

I have decided to change the title of this thread to make it a more general topic.

Please feel free to post any Custom Hall of Armor Project you have done or use this thread to as questons about HOA mods



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STRAIGHT LINE / HARD WIRED LIGHT MODS
Original Post 4
Updates in Post #s 15 / 38 / 49 / 51 / 54






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HALL OF ARMOR BAYS, Not Just for Armor
Original Post #72
Update in Post #83





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HALL OF ARMOR HOUSE PARTY PROTOCOL WINE CELLAR PROJECT

Original Post #136
Update in Posts #142 / 149 / 151 / 166 / 168





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IRON MAN HOUSE PARTY PROTOCOL BASE HEIGHT REDUCTION

If you don’t like the height of the base that comes with most od the HPP Fgures you eliminate the bottom part by removing the 4 screws and pulling the bottom off.





I add a 12vdc LED light panel to the bottom part of the base to illuminate it. The panel cost less then $1 on eBay and it is hot glued in place.

I choose to solder long wires to this and extend them out of the base to connect it to other bases, but you could solder the wires to a power jack and plug them in if you want to.






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IRON MAN HOUSE PARTY PROTOCOL HOA BASE REVERSAL

If you don’t like the IM3 logo on the front of the base that come with the HPP HOA bays it is easy to reverse. The base 3 separate pieces. Remove the 4 screws on the bottom, pull the middle section from the top plate and rotate it 180 degrees. Slide it back onto the screw posts on the top plat and reinstall the bottom. Now the palte it in the back, out of sight.





IRON MAN HOUSE PARTY PROTOCOL HOA BASE DC POWER JACK INSTALLATION

It is simple to add a power jack to the base.

This is the jack I used -

DC Power Jack Socket DC-002 1.1 x 3.5 mm.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/181126644445?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


It is the same size as the jack used to power the back panel



I solder 2 wires to the correct lugs and then hot glued the jack to the peg socket at the back of the base.

Then I routed the wires to the battery box and soldered them to their respective lugs and I used hot glue to secure the wires in place

I drilled a 3/8” hole through the back to give me plenty of clearance for the jack and I removed the back peg, you really don’t need all 4 screws to hold it together so this isn’t a issue.










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HALL OF ARMOR POWER SUPPLY INFORMATION:

Here are the specs

AC Power Supply Adapter DC 4.5V 1A / 2.1/5.5mm Plug Tip

Here is a seller on ebay that sells then for $4.99 with free shipping, I bought 4 from this seller

AC Wall Mains Power Supply Adapter DC 4 5V 1A 2 1 5 5mm Plug Tip | eBay




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HOUSE PARTY PROTOCOL HALL OF ARMOR POWER SUPPLY INFORMATION:

Unlike the original HOA Bays that interconnect and share a single power supply these HPP HOA Bays use individual power supplies.

This only illuminates the unit, the bases have to be wired separately


USB HUB

I use this one available on eBay for $7.99 shipped

YOU CAN NOT USE THE 5VDC POWER SUPPLY THAT IT COMES WITH THIS

https://www.ebay.com/itm/351100095569?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT





POWER SUPPLY

I use this one available on ebay for $2.76

AC to DC 4.5V 1A US Converter charger Adapter Power Supply 1000mA DC 5.5X2.1mm


https://www.ebay.com/itm/291348841939?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT


IT ALSO PLUGS DIRECTLY INTO THE FOLLOWING

• THE ORIGINAL HOA BAYS
• THE LIGHT UP BASE INCLUDED WITH THE IM3 ARMOR TESTING WORK SHOP SET

Re: Hot Toys “Straight/ No Radius” Hall of Armor Project

This a great idea Dave...looking forward to more updates

Re: Hot Toys “Straight/ No Radius” Hall of Armor Project

Oh I thought you could set them up like that anyway? So the stock items can only be arranged in a radius

Re: Hot Toys “Straight/ No Radius” Hall of Armor Project

I never thought I would have the room to display a 1/6 scale HOA but my wife came up with the idea of putting them on top of the entertainment center, but due to the radius that is created when you interconnect the bays this would be impossible.

So I decided to modify them so they would sit in a straight line.

I started today and this is what I have so far:




I have 2 of the 5 bays hard wired and will work on the other 3 this week.

Overall this was a real PITA to do and I learned a lot about how these work.

The plan is to have 13 bays and since there is no way I could move all of them around I decided to do them in a 5 / 4 / 4 configuration.

In hind sight I want to change the configuration to 2 sets of 6 with single center “power” bay.

I also know of an easier way to do the electrical mods so I might just scrap this whole set.

I thought about selling it on eBay once it’s complete but shipping would be ridiculous which also probably rules out trades.

I don’t know what to do.

Re: Hot Toys “Straight/ No Radius” Hall of Armor Project

Boba Debt said:

Yes, the stock HOA Bays create a radius when you interconnect them and it's pretty deep. For 5 bays it was about 18 inches so I images it would be really deep if you lined up 13 bays.

Click to expand...

Oh so How did you get them to line up that way, it look s way better IMO and helps when you dont have the space like you said
Also your clearly a lucky man, most Wives/GF's would just say 'in the closet with them', so props to her!

Re: Hot Toys “Straight/ No Radius” Hall of Armor Project

You have to cut them. I used my table saw and an expensive blade designed to cut plastic.

But if you cut them you have to re-work the electronics because you remove the circuits that allow you to interconnect the units.

I do have a great wife, she loves this stuff as much as I do. You should check out our collection thread, you will see that our living room is full of props and toys from the movies we love

Re: Hot Toys “Straight/ No Radius” Hall of Armor Project

Boba Debt said:

You have to cut them. I used my table saw and an expensive blade designed to cut plastic.

But if you cut them you have to re-work the electronics because you remove the circuits that allow you to interconnect the units.

I do have a great wife, she loves this stuff as much as I do. You should check out our collection thread, you will see that our living room is full of props and toys from the movies we love

Click to expand...

Ahh! I could do that, I might try it when I get bored with the radius set-up or if i get HOA for all my Iron Mans, except Igor obviously and Hulkbuster too(IF), oh actually I wonder if I could get a floating shelf and put the HOA on that shelf but have it low enough so I could stick Igor underneath and it would look like he was holding up the shelf

I'll check out your pics too!

Re: Hot Toys “Straight/ No Radius” Hall of Armor Project

Ah I thought they connected flat anyway. That's annoying to think I'd have to cut them up to ge them to fit on a shelf or something...

Good job getting it done.

Re: Hot Toys “Straight/ No Radius” Hall of Armor Project

I think that most people think they are straight.

I was disappointed that they had so much radius, which is why I am taking drastic measures.

I finished the electronics tonight and will start to re-install all of the top, back and bottom panels tomorrow.

Re: Hot Toys “Straight/ No Radius” Hall of Armor Project

Boba Debt said:

I think that most people think they are straight.

I was disappointed that they had so much radius, which is why I am taking drastic measures.

I finished the electronics tonight and will start to re-install all of the top, back and bottom panels tomorrow.

Click to expand...

Yeah I look forward to seeing the finished pieces

Re: Hot Toys “Straight/ No Radius” Hall of Armor Project

I was able to get a picture of this last night when it was really dark and I can not see any light bleed through where the units are attached to each other

It also very bright and the lighting looks way more consistent then when I used batteries





This is where all 13 units will eventually go, you can really see how much radius there is to just 5 bays. I would not have been able to even add 2 more bays because 5 were almost touching the wall.





I like the way this looks but I still think I’m going to sell this one on eBay and start over.

I am 100% satisfied with the mechanical way they are connected but I would prefer to do the electronics a different way.

Re: Hot Toys “Straight/ No Radius” Hall of Armor Project

Boba Debt said:

I was able to get a picture of this last night when it was really dark and I can not see any light bleed through where the units are attached to each other

It also very bright and the lighting looks way more consistent then when I used batteries

This is where all 13 units will eventually go, you can really see how much radius there is to just 5 bays. I would not have been able to even add 2 more bays because 5 were almost touching the wall.

I like the way this looks but I still think I’m going to sell this one on eBay and start over.

I am 100% satisfied with the mechanical way they are connected but I would prefer to do the electronics a different way.

Click to expand...

I would imagine they would sell pretty easily, I would buy them but I have 12 bays already and not enough suits to fill them(pre-orders). Still, very nice work with this, I really like the display cabinet you've got there. That plug socket would drive me nuts, but you probably don't have OCD

Re: Hot Toys “Straight/ No Radius” Hall of Armor Project

Would it be possible to share how you got then all lit up together like that? Your set up seems brighter compared to just using a adapter to power them all. Looks great.

Re: Hot Toys “Straight/ No Radius” Hall of Armor Project

Very cool. Everytime I see this thread bumped, I think of this, though:

Re: Hot Toys “Straight/ No Radius” Hall of Armor Project

Brainiac said:

I would imagine they would sell pretty easily, I would buy them but I have 12 bays already and not enough suits to fill them(pre-orders). Still, very nice work with this, I really like the display cabinet you've got there. That plug socket would drive me nuts, but you probably don't have OCD

Click to expand...

I would trade you bay for bay but shipping this would be very expensive and I would be afraid that it would get damaged in shipping.

Hologram AI said:

Would it be possible to share how you got then all lit up together like that? Your set up seems brighter compared to just using a adapter to power them all. Looks great.

Click to expand...

Everything is wired in parallel so you have a consistent 4.5 volts. My power supply provides 1.5 amps of current so there is more then enough to run these.

When you interconnect the factory bays they are put in a series parallel circuit that drops voltage and produces dimmer bays.

To cut these straight I had to remove the wiring that went to the interconnection contacts.

Rather then use those wires I removed the back panel leads from the base units circuit card and then extended them so they would reach the DC jack.


I also wired up the sides and connected them in parallel with the main power.

I tried to use phone wire splices but they only worked 50% of the time, so I ended up just twisting the wires together and then I hot glued the bare wires to the base to secure the connection and to provide insulation.

I also hot glued the circuit cards because the wires are very fragile and come off easily.

Re: Hot Toys “Straight/ No Radius” Hall of Armor Project

Boba Debt said:

I would trade you bay for bay but shipping this would be very expensive and I would be afraid that it would get damaged in shipping.

Click to expand...

Yep! Very expensive, also I'm in Ireland so then it's even more! Still you'll move em pretty easily on eBay I would imagine

Re: Hot Toys “Straight/ No Radius” Hall of Armor Project

I got all of the panels installed. Due to the extra wires I had to remove the battery boxes from the bottom panels and grind down an area but the process didn’t go that bad.












I thought the connection area would look bad considering that I cut these with a table saw but it looks no worse then the factory set up. The gap is minimal and you don’t really notice it, however, if you were to do this in a location where the top was easily seen I would recommend covering it with a single piece of material such a a piece of 1/4” plywood painted gray.



All of this is powered by a 1 amp power supply that I found for $4.99 on ebay. It has more then enough power and the plug is the correct size


https://www.ebay.com/itm/151134794271?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Re: Hot Toys “Straight/ No Radius” Hall of Armor Project

Boba Debt said:

I got all of the panels installed. Due to the extra wires I had to remove the battery boxes from the bottom panels and grind down an area but the process didn’t go that bad.












I thought the connection area would look bad considering that I cut these with a table saw but it looks no worse then the factory set up. The gap is minimal and you don’t really notice it, however, if you were to do this in a location where the top was easily seen I would recommend covering it with a single piece of material such a a piece of 1/4” plywood painted gray.



All of thisis power by w 1 amp power supply that I found for $4.99 on ebay. It has more then enough power and the plug is the correct size


https://www.ebay.com/itm/151134794271?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Click to expand...

Hah! Steelers Iron Man (I think I don't really know Football)

Re: Hot Toys “Straight/ No Radius” Hall of Armor Project

Very clean modification, and install of the wiring. It sure does save all the depth needed for the factory configuration. I think for now I will continue to use the factory layout, but really like what you did here.

Re: Hot Toys “Straight/ No Radius” Hall of Armor Project

very nice..... now thoughts for scratch building going through head