DETOLF OWNERS - Is there a NEED for Simple Adjustable Shelf Brackets?

Collector Freaks Forum

Help Support Collector Freaks Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I would like them-Even with my SSC PF's in them, I have dead space above each one that I'd like to utilize
 
I would be interested too. I'm looking into Detolf modding threads to get ideas on how to raise shelves. I have some Tonner dolls I would like to display, but they don't' fit in Detolfs without wasted space.
 
Interested! (only if installation of them is easy. I am the most uncoordinated individual with a disgraceful amount of lacking when it comes to mechanical skills) :dunno
 
This is something I just came up with that might work

These dimensions are just generic, I need a Detolf to create a real shelf clip but I'm not willing to pay $300 shipping toget one


Its 1/2" wide by 3/4 long and 1/4" thick.

The longer section goes toward the inside and a set screw will secure it to the rod.

This is the top view:
 
Last edited:
This will not work out with out a lot of participation.

I tried to post a general thread in a couple high traffic forums to direct people to this thread but they were deleted.

If the word doesn't get out about this, we won't be able to make them affordable and they will never come to fruition.
 
IMO, don't undertake this unless you are willing to find/acquire a Detolf cabinet yourself before you start any prototyping.

If you're open to considering alternate designs, I can make a quick drawing and send you what I think is a much better solution tomorrow.
 
Last edited:
Sure, you can email it to [email protected]



IMO, don't undertake this unless you are willing to find/acquire a Detolf cabinet yourself before you start any prototyping.

If you're open to considering alternate designs, I can make a quick drawing and send you what I think is a much better solution tomorrow.
 
Just touched this up based on something I drew up last year.

1. It doesn't protrude forward beyond the Detolf's own shelf support rails
2. It doesn't protrude inward beyond the Detolf's own shelf support rails
3. Commodity screw (philips, robertson or hex cap screw)
4. Aluminum or mild steel construction
5. Slight deflection produces significant clamping force

Detolf-Shelf-Clamp.jpg
 
I'm not sure that will work for a couple reasons

1. With as thin as it is at the 3 o clock and 12 o clock positions I can these being very easy to crack if made from aluminum and if you go with steel they will be pretty expensive and may still crack.

2. There isn't a lot of thread available in the outside arm.

3. The screw will have to be the perfect length so it does not stick out the other side as you tighten it, unless that doesn't bother people.

4. How would you get these onto the back rods?

You could move the screw forward , closer to the rod to reduce the pressure but that only eliminates one issue.

Prototyping is very expensive, I don't normally do it for my projects and have had great success, but I would not want to have 1000 of these made like this without a test run.



Just touched this up based on something I drew up last year.

1. It doesn't protrude forward beyond the Detolf's own shelf support rails
2. It doesn't protrude inward beyond the Detolf's own shelf support rails
3. Commodity screw (philips, robertson or hex cap screw)
4. Aluminum or mild steel construction
5. Slight deflection produces significant clamping force

I can see quite a demand for these.


I sure they could be but I'm not the type to have something made and hoe it sells.

The only way I would do this is it enough people signed up and pre-paid to cover the production costs.

I don't do this to make money, I do projects like this as a service to my fellow collectors.

I have seen way to many people do a project and get burned when 1/2 the group doesn't follow through.
 
1. With as thin as it is at the 3 o clock and 12 o clock positions I can these being very easy to crack if made from aluminum and if you go with steel they will be pretty expensive and may still crack.

With the very slight deflection required it's unlikely to crack. I've used plenty of thin aluminum bike parts over the years that compressed in a similar fashion. Mild steel is still pretty cheap, but you obviously have machining experience and I don't know how much the tooling work would cost.

2. There isn't a lot of thread available in the outside arm.

The outside arm thickness can obviously be increased, it just has to be thin enough to allow some deflection.

3. The screw will have to be the perfect length so it does not stick out the other side as you tighten it, unless that doesn't bother people.

It just has to be long enough to thread up to about half way - shouldn't be an issue to not have it protrude.

4. How would you get these onto the back rods?

They go in vertically and then you rotate them into position - the drawing is not to scale and the finished height of the clamp has to be less than the distance between the back rail and the back glass.

Prototyping is very expensive, I don't normally do it for my projects and have had great success, but I would not want to have 1000 of these made like this without a test run.

This design isn't terribly difficult to machine by hand with nothing but a drill press, a band saw and a tap. If you have a mill, all the better.

I sure they could be but I'm not the type to have something made and hoe it sells.
The only way I would do this is it enough people signed up and pre-paid to cover the production costs.

I suggest you give up on the idea or find some other way of covering the initial run costs, because that's unlikely to happen. I also can't see this being feasible if the finished cost to the consumer isn't below $10 per set of 4 - not sure what you were envisioning in this regard. That means a finished material/manufacturing cost of no more than $5/4, but under $1 ea would be preferable.
 
Last edited:
Cost reduced. Start with a steel flat, wrap, drill and tap.

Detolf-Shelf-Clamp2.jpg

On both these designs, the inside of the curved part that wraps around the vertical rail should also be tapped or scribed/textured to allow more grip on the rail.
 
Machine time just about doubles when you jump from aluminum to steel, plus you have the rust issue, cheap mild steal rusts pretty easy.

You might be able to get something lie this from Chine for less then a buck but that's not going to happen in the US.

The bent metal version would be way stronger but I don't know if my shop can do that.

I'll talk to the owner about that..

As for the project, I don't include a lot of mark on my parts.

I think if we could get 250 sets paid for they could be made for about $6 - $8 per set, plus $6 for domestic Priority Shipping.
 
Back
Top