damagecase
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Any tips on how to eliminate or reduce the amount of air bubles in a head sculpt casting in a split back mold?
Air Bubbles...
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damagecase
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Outside of a pressure chamber...
crueshopofhorrors
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Pour slowly, in as thin a stream as you can (so hold the mix WAY high in the air, or put what your pouring into on the floor).
You can also use vibration to "shake" the bubbles up to the surface. Get a massager, put it on top of the washer/dryer for a bit, something that'll shake it.
It's all trial and error, find what works for what you need. Other 2 options being, bite the bullet and get a pressure chamber (and a 2.5 hp air compressor/moisture trap), or get someone else to do it for ya.
Hope that helps a little!
You can also use vibration to "shake" the bubbles up to the surface. Get a massager, put it on top of the washer/dryer for a bit, something that'll shake it.
It's all trial and error, find what works for what you need. Other 2 options being, bite the bullet and get a pressure chamber (and a 2.5 hp air compressor/moisture trap), or get someone else to do it for ya.
Hope that helps a little!
Get a medium set-up resin that wont cure so fast. Pour in a little bit and rotate your mold allowing the resin to 'roll' inside covering all fine details. Then pour the rest of the resin in. Also use a plastic stirrer. Avoid wood which is porous and can add air into your resin during stirring.
Cheungkinmen
Super Freak
All of the above, and if you still get some, fill them with putty afterwards. That's how I do it without a pressure chamber.
Skiman
Super Freak
PM if you got problems Danage, I've got some SUPER SUPER secrets that might help yah, excludes the pressure pottage as well.
Cheungkinmen
Super Freak
Care to share ? haha.
CREG Customs
Super Freak
PM if you got problems Danage, I've got some SUPER SUPER secrets that might help yah, excludes the pressure pottage as well.
What secret knowledge have you unearthed about bubbles?
A resin that has a longer set time definitely helps.
smooth-on.com has some video tutorials for molding and casting. I was watching one recently and they suggested adding some baby powder to the inside of your mold (after you have added the mold release) then smack it on a table to cause the baby powder to "puff", then empty as much of the baby powder as possible out of your mold (you do not want it to be clumped in tight spots). The idea is that the baby powder will leave a thin film on the mold and draw the resin into the tiny "nooks" of your mold that would typically trap air bubbles.
I have not tried this yet, however I will say that air bubbles are nothing short of the devil. Without a pressure pot it's going to be trial and error until you find what works for you and the current mold your working with.
smooth-on.com has some video tutorials for molding and casting. I was watching one recently and they suggested adding some baby powder to the inside of your mold (after you have added the mold release) then smack it on a table to cause the baby powder to "puff", then empty as much of the baby powder as possible out of your mold (you do not want it to be clumped in tight spots). The idea is that the baby powder will leave a thin film on the mold and draw the resin into the tiny "nooks" of your mold that would typically trap air bubbles.
I have not tried this yet, however I will say that air bubbles are nothing short of the devil. Without a pressure pot it's going to be trial and error until you find what works for you and the current mold your working with.
Skiman
Super Freak
^^^ there's one SUPER secret 
BUT BUT.... THERE's MORE 
BUT BUT.... THERE's MORE [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hrm-rPSCIBw[/ame]
Ski
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Some lessons I've learned over the years about reducing bubbles....
1. Moisture is your enemy, pick a WARM, DRY day to do your casting..
2. Pour a thin layer of resin into the molding and run your fingure with a rubber glove in all the crevices, ie the nose, ears, lips, and eye sockets, then pour the rest slowly.
3. When MAKING YOUR MOLD, brush on a thin layer of silicone rubber with a paint brush on your head and let it dry which eliminates air pockets in your silicone molds too.
4. Change your brand of resin... I switched to smoothe-on bright white in which yeilded better results too.
5. If using baby powder, apply a blast of canned air to insure all clumps of baby powder have been removed.
6. Before 2nd/3rd castings, inspect your molds carefully and make sure you have removed all specks/flecks of resin left in your molds. Clean them thoroughly with a blast of canned air or you can ligthly dust them with talcom powder then blast again with canned air. Keep them clean before casting again..
1. Moisture is your enemy, pick a WARM, DRY day to do your casting..
2. Pour a thin layer of resin into the molding and run your fingure with a rubber glove in all the crevices, ie the nose, ears, lips, and eye sockets, then pour the rest slowly.
3. When MAKING YOUR MOLD, brush on a thin layer of silicone rubber with a paint brush on your head and let it dry which eliminates air pockets in your silicone molds too.
4. Change your brand of resin... I switched to smoothe-on bright white in which yeilded better results too.
5. If using baby powder, apply a blast of canned air to insure all clumps of baby powder have been removed.
6. Before 2nd/3rd castings, inspect your molds carefully and make sure you have removed all specks/flecks of resin left in your molds. Clean them thoroughly with a blast of canned air or you can ligthly dust them with talcom powder then blast again with canned air. Keep them clean before casting again..
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Cheungkinmen
Super Freak
Skiman
Super Freak
Ski
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